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Routes in Wall 1

A Slight Problem Along the Way T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4 X
Another Quick Shower T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bar is Open, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cinquante Briques T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cinque Briquettes (variation) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Come On, Animals! TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dancing Like a Nutter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Le Grande (L'Extension) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Petit Oiseau Mort T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lovely Snowball T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
More Romantic than Casablanca T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
That Bastard GĂ©rard! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You Old Fool T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Ryoko Oono & Mark Buntaine, 5/25/14
Page Views: 320 total · 6/month
Shared By: mbuntaine on May 27, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

This route begins with easy climbing on blocky features and ends on 15' of an interesting finger and smaller seam. The crux of the route is getting into the finger crack, but the holds are all there and the gear is generally good. A fun, short addition to Wall 1.

Location [Suggest Change]

This is the leftmost line on Wall 1, directly in front of a table-like stone and to the left of a large tree.

Protection [Suggest Change]

This route takes gear for the whole length, mostly in the finger and slightly larger range. Anchor at the tree just to the left of the line. To descend, walk down the gully to climber-left.

Photos

Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.8
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.8
A fun and deceptively engaging route for being pretty short. Definitely not a "gimme," especially with the small placements. The walk-off is quick, but bushy. Jul 29, 2014

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