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Routes in Wall 1

A Slight Problem Along the Way T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4 X
Another Quick Shower T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bar is Open, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cinquante Briques T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cinque Briquettes (variation) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Come On, Animals! TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dancing Like a Nutter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Le Grande (L'Extension) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Petit Oiseau Mort T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lovely Snowball T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
More Romantic than Casablanca T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
That Bastard GĂ©rard! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You Old Fool T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Ches Upham and Chris Wing, 6/9/12
Page Views: 269 total, 6/month
Shared By: Ches on May 27, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

On the far right side of Wall 1, there is a diamond shaped face ~1/3 of the way up the wall. Navigating this diamond is the crux of the climb.

Either (1) climb the offwidth on the right, (2) pull over the bulge on the face, or (3) bypass to the left. (1) and (2) offer a few moves ~5.10. Really a 5.5 with a V0 boulder problem in the center.

The original line started very far left and traversed just above the poison oak (now removed) to the base of the bulge. We were hunting for the steepest/thinnest part of the wall, so the route shot way right, then back left to the tree. Now, I recommend starting directly underneath the diamond and climbing up the pocketed face. Once over the diamond, take the cracks back left to the oak tree.

Location

Rap from the oak tree

Protection

Protect the crux with a #3 or #4 (?).

Photos

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