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Routes in Wall 1

A Slight Problem Along the Way T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4 X
Another Quick Shower T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bar is Open, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cinquante Briques T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cinque Briquettes (variation) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Come On, Animals! TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dancing Like a Nutter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Le Grande (L'Extension) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Petit Oiseau Mort T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lovely Snowball T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
More Romantic than Casablanca T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
That Bastard GĂ©rard! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You Old Fool T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Boulder, 75 ft
FA: Jeff Mahoney, solo, 4/19/14
Page Views: 248 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jeff Mahoney on May 11, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Are you the fifth wheel? The odd person out on a trip up to Panic Town? A boulderer who thinks trad is dumb? This will keep you busy while the geeks sort their gear and talk about how much a single lobe of a Totem Cam will "actually" hold if you fell on it, blah, blah, blah.

At the far right of Wall 1, start on the obvious 20' overhanging boulder behind the dead trunk. Pimp your way up to the big rail for your left hand, then foot. Mince your way up the slab with the wiggly seam and over the oak branch. Now you're on the arete of the wall. Take it to the top. Wave to brainiacs who are still sorting gear. Downclimb the route or scramble down the right side or left side of the wall. Rinse, repeat, go for a swim.


Protection

No pad needed. Plenty of springy dirt and plantlife at the base, but that's just for the V0 part. The 5.6X not so much...

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