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Routes in Wall 1

A Slight Problem Along the Way T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4 X
Another Quick Shower T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bar is Open, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cinquante Briques T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cinque Briquettes (variation) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Come On, Animals! TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dancing Like a Nutter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Le Grande (L'Extension) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Petit Oiseau Mort T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lovely Snowball T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
More Romantic than Casablanca T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
That Bastard Gérard! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You Old Fool T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jeff Mahoney and Alex Lau, 5/28/12
Page Views: 282 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jeff Mahoney on Apr 20, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start on the lower left side of the bulge ramp that diagonals Wall 1. Climb up and through an interesting crack feature, then take the direct line straight up and pass the right side of the oak tree 2/3rds of the way up and move over to the crack just right and head straight to the top. Two variations have you moving over either before the tree or after. Both fun. (See route topo.)

Protection

A rack of singles to 4" and maybe a couple of extra finger-sized pieces (tri-cams or offset nuts work well, too).

Photos

Robert Holder
  5.7+
Robert Holder  
  5.7+
Not a lot of options for pro down low (there are good places, just keep your eyes open). Great climbing, especially the top half, where the cracks become more continuous.

(like most of the wall, you don't need to jam/lock if you don't want to; plenty of good features on the face). Jun 1, 2015