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Areas in Humbug Spires

Friend's Rock 5 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Wedge, The 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Elevation: 7,000 ft
GPS: 45.743, -112.671 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 26,103 total · 271/month
Shared By: Ben Redinius on Oct 25, 2010 with updates from Matt Wenger and 1 other
Admins: grk10vq
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Road closed December 2 to May 15 Details


The Humbug Spires contain excellent climbing on white granite of the Boulder Batholith. The main attraction here is the largest spire in the area, The Wedge. It is around 500 feet tall and requires 5.8 climbing to reach the summit. Consult Randall Green's Rock Climbing Montana or Butte's Climbing Guide by Dwight Bishop for further information.

Getting There

The Humbug Spires are located in Silver Bow County in southwestern Montana, approximately 24 miles south of Butte and 36 miles north of Dillon. They are on the edge of the Big Hole River Valley between the Highland Mountains and the Pioneer Mountains. This area is accessible by graded road from Interstate Highway 15.

Turn off I-15 at Moose Creek Exit #99 and follow the graded Moose Creek Road for about 3 miles to the parking lot. Driving time from Butte or Dillon is about 45 minutes.

Once at the Moose Creek Trailhead go past the outhouse and cross the creek on a small bridge. The trail follows the creek and meadow for a mile and a half until it crosses back over the creek. Continue to follow the main creek for a short 10-15 minute walk, you will come to a sharp right turn uphill to get into another drainage leading up to a meadow. From this point you can finally see the Wedge. At the far end of the meadow are the remains of a cabin with a spring comes out of a pipe behind the cabin. Continue on behind the cabin and make for the base of The Wedge. Follow individual directions for the Friends Rock and other spires.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Humbug Spires

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Mutt and Jeff
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southwest Face
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southeast Chimneys
Trad 6 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tiny Tim
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Mutt and Jeff Wedge
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Southwest Face Wedge
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Southeast Chimneys Wedge
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Tiny Tim Wedge
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Humbug Spires »

Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
Ty Morrison-Heath   Bozeman, MT
The original location of many of the dirty sox clubs exploits. There are some great reads on it if you google dirty sox club. Mar 22, 2011
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
Ty Morrison-Heath   Bozeman, MT
Video I made of the Mutt and Jeff… Jun 10, 2013
Matt Wenger
Matt Wenger   Bozeman
It should be noted that the approach hike is an easy 4 miles, with very, very little elevation gain.

Also note, location marker is for trailhead. Actual coordinates for The Wedge are:

45.777565, -112.636676

Nice video Ty! May 7, 2017

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