Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Humbug Spires

Dogleg Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Exit 99 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mutt and Jeff, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southeast Chimneys T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tiny Tim T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,108 total, 121/month
Shared By: Ty Morrison-Heath on Oct 9, 2011
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


32 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Road closed December 2 to May 15 Details

Description

The must do route on this wall, it ascends up the longest face on the Wedge and is a must do if you make the pilgrimage to this awesome area. It is a 5 pitch climb that has holds in all the right places with lots of friction required to make your way up the rock.

Pitch 1 - 5.7
Climb the flake aiming towards the two side by side bolts. Marvel at how unlikely it is that the 1/4 pinhead bolt will actually hold as you traverse into the crack to the right of the small roof. Climb up and follow the crack for about 25 feet until you notice a couple of horns and knobs to your left that lead into a small dihedral. Climb up a few feet to protect and then put your big boy pants on. Traverse the 20 feet left into the dihedral and then continue up to the crack until you reach some webbing. Sling out your placement that you place once you hit the dihedral or prepare for suicide inducing rope drag. Bring extra webbing and a #1 camalot to back up the anchor.

Pitch 2 - 5.8
Take the crack up and to the left of the cyclops eye passing through the crux at the roof. Continue up this crack until you reach a small ledge with two bolts for an anchor. Get yer offwidth face on for the next pitch!

Pitch 3 - 5.8
Continue up the crack following it as it widens as you go up. 5.9 crack to your left can help a bit by providing extra holds. Extra points for moans of agony as you scrape your body up the offwidth. Ends on a large chalkstone suspended 400 feet off the ground. Build an anchor here considering what will happen when this chalkstone releases plunging you into the abyss. Think about nothing else for the entire time you belay your second.

Pitch 4 - 5.7
Climb up from the chalkstone aiming for the chimney feature at the top. Can be a little runout but does take some gear. Really fun climbing, almost sandstone like features. Either build an anchor in the rat infested stank hole that is the chimney, or continue to the top if you feel like screaming at your belayer is more your forte.

Pitch 5 - 5.3/5.4
Get your slab runout face on! Really easy climbing it just has one placement in the 100 foot of climbing. Heels down and mantle your way on up until you reach the anchor bolts at the top. Marvel at the view! Contemplate how the hell you will get down!

The descent is possibly one of the scariest parts of this climb. Head north towards the mountains following the ridge. Crane your neck and you will see in the distance along a thin 3 foot knife edge a bunch of bolts. Your goal is to get to these. Stay roped in for this maneuver; it is a lot weirder than it looks. Poo yourself a little as you walk across the knife edge and look for a couple of placements along the way. Clip on in and breathe easy. A 70 meter rope will just BARELY make it to the ground if you are fat. If you are thin the last 5 feet of this rappel is going to suck. If you don't have one of them fancy 70 meter ropes then there are intermediate bolts for you use. Enjoy the 4 mile hike out!

Location

The route is in a gorgeous valley about 4 miles down the trail from the trailhead. From the trailhead follow the trail until you climb a rather rough switchbacking section. Just make sure to stay left here and continue following the obvious trail. About 1/2 a mile before the end of the trail the wedge will come into view from a large meadow. This climb starts approx. in the middle and heads left at the large roof (Cyclops Eye) and then goes out of view. The base of the climb is at a large flake and you can see a singular bolts about 60 foot of the deck below a small roof. See above for descent info.

photosynth.net/view.aspx?ci…
View from the top.

Approach map
runkeeper.com/user/tymorris…

Protection

Double rack of cams #.5-#3 and 1 #4. Bring all your big stuff for the 4th pitch or run it out. A single set of nuts is a handy thing to have as well.
Tim Gentry  
 
This route is super classic. Not just for the climbing, but for the adventurous nature, with runout traverses, offwidths, rat-poo cracks, jangus bolts, and a nauseating descent. Sep 17, 2017
Andrew Demaree
Missoula MT
Andrew Demaree   Missoula MT
Although I have never done The Mutt and Jeff in its entirety (every pitch, but pitch 2), I would add that the off-width pitch definitely does not require anything larger than a #3 BD Camelot. I linked into pitch 3 from the top of Tiny Tim and it was fine with a single rack of BD Camelots 0.3 - 3, BD C3s 00 - 2 and no passive pro. It was definitely run out because I was conserving pro for an anchor at the chock-stone (highly recommended), but with a double rack you would be able to find more than adequate pro inside the off-width (use runners). It’s also worth noting that you can literally taste the rat feces being blown out of the crack as you climb, so I would recommend climbing of the lip of the off-width, at least for the most part, and just ducking in periodically to place gear. I was also wearing shorts, so the idea of not tearing up my inner thigh also made this method appealing. All things considered, the climb is definitely fun and worth doing based on the parts of it I have done. If you don’t like exposure, only climb 5.9, or are new to multi-pitch you shouldn’t have any problems on this one, but you might not be very excited when you see the traverse to the rap anchors. While the traverse is very easy and secure, it would definitely ruin your day if you fell and I can’t say it was very fun in strong winds. The bolts for the rap anchor is bomber. There is only one old angle left, but just use the three good bolts that are chained together next to it. I think the guy complaining about the rappel went straight down the overhanging face to a tiny tree (based on the slings wrapped around it) about 20 ft off the ground. If you stay left a 70m gets you to a big ledge with an easy 10 ft of 5.5 down climbing to the ground or just use the second set of anchors at the top of the slab, located directly below the first anchors.
Jun 10, 2017
Bryan Gartland
Helena, MT
 
Bryan Gartland   Helena, MT
 
I think that the descent, including the scramble over to the anchors, is one of the highlights of any Wedge summit route. It's fine the way it is -- good, airy fun! I haven't climbed it in a couple years but I recall good bolts at the end of the "knife edge" in addition to the rusty old pins. Also, there is/was an intermediate rap station (bolts) that negates any need for slinging a tree if you only have one rope.

Make sure your rap line(s) are set up to pull as freely as possible before leaving the upper rap station. I've had mine get hung up several times. Jan 6, 2016
Ryan Day Thompson
Phoenix, Arizona
Ryan Day Thompson   Phoenix, Arizona
This climb is mellow and wonderful and aesthetic and everything they say doesn't exist in Montana. Lots of gear except for the effery of the traverse which when it comes right down to it wasn't the end of the world but was definitely a touch weird.

Now, the descent. Let's talk about the descent. What in the ****ing ***k ****ness is this descent. Sweet baby Juses Crust. I mean, yeah, it's a "scramble" in most books but WHY. OMFG I'd rather climb OW in wet sandstone than do this again. And without a doubt I will use the two shiny new pieces of hardware on the summit to go exploring and leave cams and make my own stations before I ever walk over the horrifying knife edge to the three horrifying angles that lead to a little tree (with a single 70) that can sort of serve as an intermediate station I guess maybe.

It's 2015. Something needs to be done about the descent. Dec 28, 2015
Stuart Parker
Missoula, MT
 
Stuart Parker   Missoula, MT
 
Beer prize to anyone who finds my orange soft shell at the base! It's pretty tattered, I'll cover shipping as well as an alcohol based finders fee. Also, that sling on the butter knife is from this weekend, super solid. Oct 21, 2014
Fantastic climb! One of the better moderate outings I've had in Montana. Skipped the OW and went with the 5.9 crack to the left. Also really fun. Aug 18, 2014
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
 
Ty Morrison-Heath   Bozeman, MT
 
@Jason Todd. Fixed it. This is for sure a grade III. With the approach it is a full day if moving slowly. Jun 17, 2013
Jason Todd
Cody, WY
  5.8
Jason Todd   Cody, WY
  5.8
A fantastic line equaled only by the Southwest Face route. We took doubles to 3, plus a 4 and 5. Plenty of gear for the OW on P3. I ran P3 above the chockstone (that thing is cool!) about 20' to a nice ledge, then ran P4 and P5 together with minimal drag. Grade IV? Not really, just 4 great pitches of quality batholith. Jun 17, 2013
Keith H.
Bozeman, MT
Keith H.   Bozeman, MT
Great route. It takes about an hour to an hour and half to get to the base of the climb, depending on your pace. The climb has great exposure. I would suggest bringing 2 #4's and maybe a #5 (nice but not necessary) for the 3rd pitch. Also, watch out on the 3rd pitch there is as of of today a Rat's nest somewhere after the offwidth section. Overall, awesome route in a beautiful area and definitely be careful heading over to the rap anchor Jun 10, 2013
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
 
Ty Morrison-Heath   Bozeman, MT
 
vimeo.com/48812441
Short video I made of us climbing the Mutt and Jeff. Oct 10, 2012