Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||220 total · 36/month|
|Shared By:||szheng on Jul 18, 2017|
Road closed December 2 to May 15 Details
The Humbug Spires are part of the Humbug Spires Wilderness Study Area managed by the Bureau of Land Management. The road is closed to motorized vehicles from December 2 to May 15. The use of power drills is prohibited.
DescriptionThe amazing crack that doglegs rightward, to the left of The Mutt and Jeff.
Begin on an easy, low angle twin crack section to the first crux, a 5.10 PG13 slab problem. Made a bit spicier by the fact that the bolt hanger is missing (!), but there's good gear at your feet and you can hang a nut on the bolt if you like. Continue upward toward the steep corner, pull around the roof and embark on the sweet, steepening finger crack (11a).
Nut and bolt anchor before the crack doglegs rightward (P2). Possible to link but rope drag could be tricky. You can also rappel from the first anchor with a 70m rope.