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Routes in Humbug Spires

Dogleg Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Exit 99 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mutt and Jeff, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southeast Chimneys T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tiny Tim T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 220 total · 36/month
Shared By: szheng on Jul 18, 2017
Admins: grk10vq

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Road closed December 2 to May 15 Details

Description

The amazing crack that doglegs rightward, to the left of The Mutt and Jeff.

Begin on an easy, low angle twin crack section to the first crux, a 5.10 PG13 slab problem. Made a bit spicier by the fact that the bolt hanger is missing (!), but there's good gear at your feet and you can hang a nut on the bolt if you like. Continue upward toward the steep corner, pull around the roof and embark on the sweet, steepening finger crack (11a).

Nut and bolt anchor before the crack doglegs rightward (P2). Possible to link but rope drag could be tricky. You can also rappel from the first anchor with a 70m rope.

Protection

Standard rack, extra finger size pieces

Photos

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