All Locations > Montana > Southwest Region > Butte Area > Humbug Spires > Wedge

Tiny Tim

Name: Tiny Tim
Rating: 3.9

5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13

Routes in The Wedge

L › R R › L A › Z

	Balcony Direct S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dogleg Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Exit 99 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Mutt and Jeff, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Southeast Chimneys T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Southwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Spellcaster T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Tiny Tim T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

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Type:	Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
GPS:	45.7773, -112.63682
FA:	Donnie Black, et al.
Page Views:	2,354 total · 20/month
Shared By:	Orphaned User on Jun 26, 2016
Admins:	GRK, Zach Wahrer Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Road closed December 2 to May 15 Details

The Humbug Spires are part of the Humbug Spires Wilderness Study Area managed by the Bureau of Land Management. The road is closed to motorized vehicles from December 2 to May 15. The use of power drills is prohibited.

Description

An excellent slab climb on the left side of the West Face of The Wedge.

P1: Start just around the left corner of the West Face. Climb up to the first bolt at 15' and continue for ~150' past 11 total bolts. 2 bolt belay just above the small roof. (5.10c)

P2: Continue up 20' more slab past two bolts (5.10B) until the face becomes more featured continue up stepping right around the corner on a mixture of bolts and gear (4 more bolts, gear to 0.75 camalot, 5.9). I traversed right near the top of the pitch past a hangerless bolt and belayed in a small alcove below a wide dihedral (5.7) but the Bishop topo shows the route continuing straight up. (5.10b)

P3: Climb the wide dihedral until you reach a large ledge. Follow the line of least resistance to the summit slabs and cruise to the top

Location

Climbers left corner of the west face of the Wedge. To rappel, follow the ridge (5.4, exposed) until you reach a bolt anchor. One 70m will get you down, a single 60m will be close.