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Routes in The Wedge
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Balcony Direct S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dogleg Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Exit 99 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Mutt and Jeff, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Southeast Chimneys T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Southwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spellcaster T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tiny Tim T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Donnie Black, et al. |
| Page Views: | 2,258 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Jun 26, 2016 |
| Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Road closed December 2 to May 15
Details
The Humbug Spires are part of the Humbug Spires Wilderness Study Area managed by the Bureau of Land Management. The road is closed to motorized vehicles from December 2 to May 15. The use of power drills is prohibited.
Description
An excellent slab climb on the left side of the West Face of The Wedge.
P1: Start just around the left corner of the West Face. Climb up to the first bolt at 15' and continue for ~150' past 11 total bolts. 2 bolt belay just above the small roof. (5.10c)
P2: Continue up 20' more slab past two bolts (5.10B) until the face becomes more featured continue up stepping right around the corner on a mixture of bolts and gear (4 more bolts, gear to 0.75 camalot, 5.9). I traversed right near the top of the pitch past a hangerless bolt and belayed in a small alcove below a wide dihedral (5.7) but the Bishop topo shows the route continuing straight up. (5.10b)
P3: Climb the wide dihedral until you reach a large ledge. Follow the line of least resistance to the summit slabs and cruise to the top
P1: Start just around the left corner of the West Face. Climb up to the first bolt at 15' and continue for ~150' past 11 total bolts. 2 bolt belay just above the small roof. (5.10c)
P2: Continue up 20' more slab past two bolts (5.10B) until the face becomes more featured continue up stepping right around the corner on a mixture of bolts and gear (4 more bolts, gear to 0.75 camalot, 5.9). I traversed right near the top of the pitch past a hangerless bolt and belayed in a small alcove below a wide dihedral (5.7) but the Bishop topo shows the route continuing straight up. (5.10b)
P3: Climb the wide dihedral until you reach a large ledge. Follow the line of least resistance to the summit slabs and cruise to the top
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