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Routes in The Wedge
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Balcony Direct S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dogleg Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Exit 99 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Mutt and Jeff, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Southeast Chimneys T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Southwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spellcaster T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tiny Tim T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 45.7773, -112.63682 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 380 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Mills on Aug 8, 2022 |
| Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Road closed December 2 to May 15
Details
The Humbug Spires are part of the Humbug Spires Wilderness Study Area managed by the Bureau of Land Management. The road is closed to motorized vehicles from December 2 to May 15. The use of power drills is prohibited.
Description
(Since Dwight Bishop's "Butte's Climbing Guide" is long out of print, it's worth adding more Wedge routes here.)
The guide lists Spellcaster as 295 ft. -- it's actually 230 and the two pitches can be linked with a 70.
P1 can be climbed and lowered off with a 60. To rap from the top of P2 you will need at least double 60s; a single 70 probably won't reach the mid-anchor for two raps.
In 2022, the top anchors are two bolts and webbing, the mid-anchors are two bolts and carabiners, bring webbing/cord just incase.
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