Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||94 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Elena Hodges on Jun 19, 2017|
Road closed December 2 to May 15 Details
The Humbug Spires are part of the Humbug Spires Wilderness Study Area managed by the Bureau of Land Management. The road is closed to motorized vehicles from December 2 to May 15. The use of power drills is prohibited.
DescriptionA good option if the two classic 5.8s on either side of the Cyclops Eye on the south face of the Wedge are busy.
P1 - A few tenuous moves before the first bolt, mostly just getting off the ground to gain the slab. A little stemming/chimneying makes it feel plenty secure, though. Mantel your way up the fun, runout slab, 7bs. There's a great flake farther to the right of the bolt line, but it's a little too far away to be very useful for the leader. Continue up progressively easier ground, past a large chockstone. You can either traverse left and build a belay on a large ledge with a few cracks for gear, or continue straight up the face -- apparently there's a bolted anchor, but we went left so can't confirm.
P2 - Continue up the cracks until the notch separating the northeast buttress from the main Wedge summit block. Bolted anchors, rap from here.
LocationOn the southwest face of the Wedge. Start behind and to the right (uphill) of a big block. Rap the route with a 70.
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