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Routes in The Wedge

Dogleg Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Exit 99 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mutt and Jeff, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southeast Chimneys T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tiny Tim T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 161 total · 10/month
Shared By: Elena Hodges on Jun 19, 2017
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


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Description

A good option if the two classic 5.8s on either side of the Cyclops Eye on the south face of the Wedge are busy.

P1 - A few tenuous moves before the first bolt, mostly just getting off the ground to gain the slab. A little stemming/chimneying makes it feel plenty secure, though. Mantel your way up the fun, runout slab, 7bs. There's a great flake farther to the right of the bolt line, but it's a little too far away to be very useful for the leader. Continue up progressively easier ground, past a large chockstone. You can either traverse left and build a belay on a large ledge with a few cracks for gear, or continue straight up the face -- apparently there's a bolted anchor, but we went left so can't confirm.
P2 - Continue up the cracks until the notch separating the northeast buttress from the main Wedge summit block. Bolted anchors, rap from here.

Location

On the southwest face of the Wedge. Start behind and to the right (uphill) of a big block. Rap the route with a 70.

Protection

Mixed - 7 bolts on the first pitch, then med-wide gear to the top. Gear anchor at the top of p1. Bolted anchors with rap rings at the top of p2.

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