PRINT: Rock Climb Spellcaster, Southwest Region

Spellcaster

5.8+, Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
FA: unknown
Montana > Southwest Region > Butte Area > Humbug Spires > Wedge

Access Issue: Road closed December 2 to May 15 Details

The Humbug Spires are part of the Humbug Spires Wilderness Study Area managed by the Bureau of Land Management. The road is closed to motorized vehicles from December 2 to May 15. The use of power drills is prohibited.

Description

(Since Dwight Bishop's "Butte's Climbing Guide" is long out of print, it's worth adding more Wedge routes here.)

The guide lists Spellcaster as 295 ft. -- it's actually 230 and the two pitches can be linked with a 70.

P1 can be climbed and lowered off with a 60. To rap from the top of P2 you will need at least double 60s; a single 70 probably won't reach the mid-anchor for two raps.

In 2022, the top anchors are two bolts and webbing, the mid-anchors are two bolts and carabiners, bring webbing/cord just incase.

Location

The route begins about 100 ft. right of Mutt and Jeff inside the huge boulder leaning against the face. Spellcaster is the left route under the boulder, Balcony Direct (5.9) is the right route.

Protection

Bolts, gear to 4, two-bolt anchors.

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Spellcaster.

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Megan Dempsey

Pitch 1 is about 100 ft. Pitch 2 is about 130 ft. You can rappel from the pitch 2 anchors to the pitch 1 anchors with and 80 meter rope. By the time you reach the P1 anchors on rappel with an 80 meter rope, there is about 1-2 ft of rope tail left, so make sure that you tie knots in the end of the rope. Sep 29, 2024