[Hide Comment] A fantastic climb! Slab climbing is not usually my favorite style, but this route climbed really well on some very unique features. I climbed this on 6/10/17 with a friend of mine, and I thought that I would add some information to update what is already provided.

P1: The first bolt is only about 10 ft of the deck and definitely doesn’t require a stick clip, although I thought the moves up to it were the most awkward on the whole route. The bolted anchor at the top of the first pitch is also directly below the small roof, not above it, which provides good gear options for backing up the belay and protecting from an F2 on the way to the first bolt of P2.

P2: The second pitch is a long one! This pitch definitely requires more than six draws (definitely bring a few 60cm slings as well), but I’m not exactly sure how many I used. Towards the top of the pitch there is a lone bolt about 20+ ft above what really should be the last bolt, right as you enter a little bowl between a large fin on the left and the off-width pitch of The Mutt and Jeff to your right. If you clip this bolt you could continue up to a crack that runs along the side of the fin to your left, which would probably accept gear from 0.5 - 1 BD Camelots, and follow this crack for ~ 15 ft to a ledge where an anchor can be built at the edge of the off-width. However, if you want to be able to see your second and maintain verbal communication (it was very windy during our climb), you can angle right of the the bolt towards a bolted anchor at roughly the same height, but on the edge of the off-width. I would not do what I did, which is clip the bolt and then continue climbing up, right, and then down climb to the anchors. There are also rap anchors in the middle of this pitch, that you could probably belay from in a pinch.

While the climbing on the first two pitches is never harder than 5.10c and the gear is definitely good when you need it, I wouldn’t recommend them for new trad leaders or climbers just reaching the grade, as the bolt/gear spacing is rarely less than 10 ft and in many places considerably more.

P3: We climbed the off-width pitch of The Mutt and Jeff (you probably skip ⅓ - ½ of this pitch the normal way), which is definitely a good way to add some variety to the climbing. We brought a single rack from 0.3 - 3 BD Camelots, BD C3s from 00-2, and no passive pro, which was definitely more than enough to make it to the top comfortably, but only if you are fine running it out on 5.9.

Optional P4: I built an anchor at the chock-stone before the upper slab so I didn’t have to sit in the wind while bringing up my second, and so that he could still (barely) hear me. You could go all the way to the top if you want to, but you will be communicating with rope tugs unless the weather is extremely calm. This pitch is 5.EASY slab, with a crack to slot gear in half way up. I wouldn’t waste your time though, as you could literally walk up it in a fully upright position.

Descent: It looks like you could rap this route now, but it would be a huge hassle navigating the chock-stone/off-width pitch and you would almost certainly get your rope stuck. Just do the normal 5.4 traverse (you can clip some old rusted pins halfway through) to the rap anchors and you are good to go. There is a second rap anchor, but with a 70m you don’t need it. Jun 10, 2017

[Hide Comment] Here is a video of the 2nd pitch: youtu.be/ShsjWsJ07Io
Andrew, your comment did not match the description of Tiny Tim after our experience. Your route description does, however, match the route just to the right of Tiny Tim. That route is called Scrooge, and all of your descriptions match that route. Specifically, your description of the first pitch, where you mention that the "anchor is beneath the roof, not beneath it", as well as your description of a "halfway bail anchor" on the second pitch. Both of those descriptors match "Scrooge". The first pitch anchor on Tiny Tim is above the roof. Tiny Tim is the bolted line about 80' left of Scrooge, and starts just around the toe of the Wedge. These climbs look very similar and have similar styles, however, I have included a detailed description of Tiny Tim, as well as included photos to try to reduce confusion. Andrew's route description seems to describe the route to the right.

Pitch 1: Begin around the corner of the wedge, left of the obvious bolted line on the West face. The start is in a little nestle of trees and is characterized by starting on a boulder before heading up the slab. The first bolt is about 15-20' off the deck, and a fall would be pretty gnarly here, but the climbing to said bolt is not difficult. Head up 8 more bolts of climbing as it heads toward the obvious roof and left facing mini-overhung dihedral. The bolts stay left of the large portion of the roof on some cool greenish rock. The anchors are a set of chains AFTER the roof. In total, this pitch is 10 bolts, and no gear was needed on this pitch. (160', 5.10).

Pitch 2: From the anchors, there are 3 obvious bolts and a crack that heads up and right. Stay left on the three bolts past some tricky slab moves (5.10). After clipping the third bolt, stay left/straight up and head directly up some AWESOME ORANGE PATINA JUG FLAKES. There is some room for some gear here in some small flakes and cracks, but I chose to keep heading up to the next bolt. The bolts on the upper portion of the pitch are hard to see, so keep your eyes peeled and know that you are climbing in the right place. Once you clip this bolt, it looks like you can either head around the prow/roof above you either to the right (via slabby climbing on dishes, toward the Mutt and Jeff and Scrooge's bolted line, which is visible, as are the "halfway bail anchors" described in Andrews post", OR, it looks like you can continue UP AND LEFT ON OBVIOUS EASY, FUN PATINA. STAY LEFT. There is an obvious juggy patina rail that heads left (directly above a small crack). Step up and place optional gear in the crack, and grab the rad patina rail. There is another bolt here. Clip it and make moves on the sick patina rail out left and up to another bolt. Head up to a crack and place a hand-sized cam, then pull a mini roof onto more slab. You will see a hangerless bolt here and a right-facing dihedral above you with a wide crack in it. Build a belay at the base of the crack here with gear.

Pitch 3: Head up the wide crack in the dihedral (5.6?) and you will emerge at the top of the Mutt and Jeff's Offwidth pitch (at the chockstone belay). Continue all the way to the top of the formation from here. From the bottom of the dihedral, we were able to stretch the rope to the top of the wedge easily with a 70m rope. Could probably link those pitches with a 60m too.

Gear: You could easily get away with gear .5-3" with a rack of stoppers. The climb is 95% bolts except for the top out when it joins the Mutt and Jeff, Scrooge, and West Face. Sep 12, 2021

[Hide Comment] Andrew was likely on Scrooge we put those in and the 2 pitch dose get close to Mutt and Jeff. I don’t like that u tube video says it’s a first when Donnie Black and I climbed it years ago and put it up. Glad you like it though
Penny Back Sep 21, 2022