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Humbug Spires

Montana > Southwest Region
Warning Access Issue: Road closed December 2 to May 15 DetailsDrop down

Description

The Humbug Spires contain excellent climbing on white granite of the Boulder Batholith. The main attraction here is the largest spire in the area, The Wedge. It is around 500 feet tall and requires 5.8 climbing to reach the summit. Consult Randall Green's Rock Climbing Montana or Butte's Climbing Guide by Dwight Bishop for further information.

Getting There

The Humbug Spires are located in Silver Bow County in southwestern Montana, approximately 24 miles south of Butte and 36 miles north of Dillon. They are on the edge of the Big Hole River Valley between the Highland Mountains and the Pioneer Mountains. This area is accessible by graded road from Interstate Highway 15.

Turn off I-15 at Moose Creek Exit #99 and follow the graded Moose Creek Road for about 3 miles to the parking lot. Driving time from Butte or Dillon is about 45 minutes.

Follow individual directions for the Wedge, Friends Rock, and other spires.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The pants-crapping, Vishnu-chanting traverse to the rappel anchors from summit. Do. Not. Fall. Here.
[Hide Photo] The pants-crapping, Vishnu-chanting traverse to the rappel anchors from summit. Do. Not. Fall. Here.
Hailey climbing some boulders at the base.
[Hide Photo] Hailey climbing some boulders at the base.
Here's the traverse from the top to the rap anchors.  There's a small step down, but it's pretty straight forward.
[Hide Photo] Here's the traverse from the top to the rap anchors. There's a small step down, but it's pretty straight forward.
Aerial View<br>
Do want to go back<br>
Would live here
[Hide Photo] Aerial View Do want to go back Would live here
Humbug Spires from above, Jan 2025
[Hide Photo] Humbug Spires from above, Jan 2025
The Wedge, Humbug Spires
[Hide Photo] The Wedge, Humbug Spires
As you're walking in you're like "is this it?  is this it?  are we done yet?" because it's four miles and four miles is a long approach (wahhhh).  But when you see it you know it and it's really gorgeous.  Take a break at the meadow to just take it in.
[Hide Photo] As you're walking in you're like "is this it? is this it? are we done yet?" because it's four miles and four miles is a long approach (wahhhh). But when you see it you know it and it's really go…
The Wedge from the approach - although I always thought this rock needs a more poetic moniker.
[Hide Photo] The Wedge from the approach - although I always thought this rock needs a more poetic moniker.
The Mutt and Jeff
[Hide Photo] The Mutt and Jeff
On the walk in
[Hide Photo] On the walk in
Fairly Soft Rock but pretty solid.  Place a piece anywhere you wish
[Hide Photo] Fairly Soft Rock but pretty solid. Place a piece anywhere you wish
A fun romp up potters dome, worth checking out if you are spending some time in the area (down moose creek road about 1.5 miles past moose creek trailhead)
[Hide Photo] A fun romp up potters dome, worth checking out if you are spending some time in the area (down moose creek road about 1.5 miles past moose creek trailhead)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ty Morrison-Heath
Bella Vista, AR
[Hide Comment] The original location of many of the dirty sox clubs exploits. There are some great reads on it if you google dirty sox club. Mar 22, 2011
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bella Vista, AR
[Hide Comment] Video I made of the Mutt and Jeff
youtube.com/watch?v=yuNZuCm… Jun 10, 2013
Matt Wenger
Bozeman
[Hide Comment] It should be noted that the approach hike is an easy 4 miles, with very, very little elevation gain.

Also note, location marker is for trailhead. Actual coordinates for The Wedge are:

45.777565, -112.636676

Nice video Ty! May 7, 2017
[Hide Comment] We camped at the base of the wedge this weekend, and there was water access at the cabin (about 1/4 mile from where we camped). It was a very small flowing creek, but didn't look mucky at all. We still filtered the water and were fine.

Also, an 80 meter rope gets you all the way to the ground from the rap anchors on top of the formation. Sep 29, 2024