Elevation: 2,600 ft
GPS: 34.514, -118.402 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 249,097 total · 1,934/month
Shared By: Spider Savage on Jan 5, 2010 with 7 Suggestions
Admins: jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Texas Canyon, located in the high desert, between Santa Clarita and Aqua Dulce, consists of a collection of large conglomerate domes, isolated rock formations, and boulders nestled in the rolling hills of canyon country in NW Los Angeles County. Texas Canyon or Table Rock, the USFS designation, and the nearby Rowher Flats OHV Area are managed by the USFS, in cooperation with Los Angles County, and the State of California. Texas Canyon lies at 2500 ft in elevation. Currently, Texas Canyon hosts 160+ climbing routes from 5.0 - 5.13b. Most routes are bolted sport routes, and require only quick draws and lead to Fixe rings, chains, or shuts/hooks. A 60 meter rope is useful in climbing and descending most formations, some up to 200 in height.

The use of the Texas Canyon/Rowher Flats area spans several thousand years when local springs and the diverse landscape provided sufficient water and food to support the Tataviam Indian village. The area has been popular with OHV enthusiasts and rock climbers since the early 1960s, as evidenced by old rusty bolts and fixed pitons on some of the formations. Loomis, Leventhal, and Draper began putting up routes as early as 1992. Savage established several moderate sport routes between 1998 - 2000. Many of the moderate lines were filled in by Chapman and Neal from 2010 -2014. The area was closed for eighteen months, due to the October 2007 Buckweed Fire. The climbing at Texas Canyon can be characterized as bolted sport climbing on abundant pockets, knobs, and inclusions or weathered cobbles protruding from the surrounding rock. Climbing varies from low angle slab to steep overhung faces. The area has become popular due to the range of quality, well protected moderate routes and the short approach. Climbing is possible year round, with the exception of the coldest and hottest days. A cautious approach is advised as the conglomerate is friable and hand and footholds frequently break. Use of a helmet can not be overemphasized, especially for belayers.

An article in the Southern California Mountaineers Association (SCMA) Cliffnotes (August 1999), by Savage, provided the first documentation of climbing routes at Texas Canyon. Other guidebooks to Texas Canyon include; Best Climbs Los Angeles by Damon Corso (2014), Southern California Rock Climbing, Vol. 2 by Tom Slater (2013) and Southern California Sport Climbing, 3rd edition by Troy Mayr (2004). While these S. Cal guidebooks provide basic directions, approach information, photos, and rudimentary route topos, none of these guidebooks is comprehensive or current.  The best guidebook is Texas Canyon The Climbing Guide by Pam Neal with Ben Chapman (2019).  You'll need a copy of this last one since there is no cell reception at the crag to look things up on MountainProject on your smart phone.

Getting There

Texas Canyon is an easy 30 minute drive north from the San Fernando Valley. Take the I-5 or the 405 north to Hwy 14 toward Palmdale/Lancaster. Once through Santa Clarita, exit Sand Canyon Road and turn left and continue two miles on Sand Canyon Road to the T-intersection at Sierra Hwy. Turn right on Sierra Hwy and go ~ 5 miles to Rush Canyon Road. Turn left on Rush Canyon Road (5N13), which is marked as Rowher Flats OHV area. It quickly becomes a graded dirt road. Continue on Rush Canyon Road for 1.8 miles to a gated fire road at the ridge. Park and follow the fire road as it meanders 1/4 mile to a diagonal cutoff on the right, to the now obvious crag. It is permissible to park on either side of the road, but be cautious of parking too near the gate (no parking signs).

152 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Texas Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 43
Hyperion
Sport 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 37
Tethys
Sport 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 42
Humpty Dumpty
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 67
Cascada
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 22
Buzz Worthy
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 26
Pick A Pocket
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 52
Sophie's Choice
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 23
Betty Does Brownsville
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 48
Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed up th…
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 48
Slotterhouse
Sport
Egg
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 34
Boneyard
Sport
Egg
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 36
Texas Chainsaw Massacre
Sport
Egg
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 39
Before The Storm
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 19
Rise and Shine
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 44
The Green Mile
Sport
Egg
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hyperion Elephant Head (& Hype…
 43
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 2 pitches
Tethys Pangea Wall (or Panga…
 37
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 2 pitches
Humpty Dumpty Diner
 42
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Cascada First Corridor
 67
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Buzz Worthy N Dallas 40
 22
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Pick A Pocket First Corridor
 26
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Sophie's Choice First Corridor
 52
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Betty Does Brownsville First Corridor
 23
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed… First Corridor
 48
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Slotterhouse Egg
 48
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Boneyard Egg
 34
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Texas Chainsaw Massacre Egg
 36
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Before The Storm First Corridor
 39
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Rise and Shine First Corridor
 19
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Green Mile Egg
 44
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Texas Canyon »

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