Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 2,470 ft 753 m
GPS: 34.5136, -118.40205
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 408,093 total · 2,304/month
Shared By: Spider Savage on Jan 5, 2010 · Updates
Admins: jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Warning Access Issue: 1. RAIN & WET ROCK 2. DANGER OF EROSION DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Climbing After Rain | A Guide to Wet Rock - Sender One Climbing.webloc

DO NOT CLIMB WHEN WET!!! LET THE ROCK DRY BEFORE CLIMBING!!

Texas Canyon, located in the high desert, between Santa Clarita and Aqua Dulce, consists of a collection of large conglomerate domes, isolated rock formations, and boulders nestled in the rolling hills of canyon country in NW Los Angeles County. Texas Canyon or Table Rock, the USFS designation, and the nearby Rowher Flats OHV Area are managed by the USFS, in cooperation with Los Angles County, and the State of California. Texas Canyon lies at 2500 ft in elevation. Currently, Texas Canyon hosts 190+ climbing routes from 5.0 - 5.13b. Most routes are bolted sport routes, and require only quick draws and lead to Fixe rings, chains, or shuts/hooks. A 60 meter rope is useful in climbing and descending most formations, some up to 200 in height.

Climbing After Rain | A Guide to Wet Rock - Sender One Climbing.webloc

The use of the Texas Canyon/Rowher Flats area spans several thousand years when local springs and the diverse landscape provided sufficient water and food to support the Tataviam Indian village. The area has been popular with OHV enthusiasts and rock climbers since the early 1960s, as evidenced by old rusty bolts and fixed pitons on some of the formations. Loomis, Leventhal, and Draper began putting up routes as early as 1992. Savage established several moderate sport routes between 1998 - 2000. Many of the moderate lines were filled in by Chapman and Neal from 2010 -2014. The area was closed for eighteen months, due to the October 2007 Buckweed Fire. The climbing at Texas Canyon can be characterized as bolted sport climbing on abundant pockets, knobs, and inclusions or weathered cobbles protruding from the surrounding rock. Climbing varies from low angle slab to steep overhung faces. The area has become popular due to the range of quality, well protected moderate routes and the short approach. Climbing is possible year round, with the exception of the coldest and hottest days. A cautious approach is advised as the conglomerate is friable and hand and footholds frequently break. Use of a helmet can not be overemphasized, especially for belayers.

An article in the Southern California Mountaineers Association (SCMA) Cliffnotes (August 1999), by Savage, provided the first documentation of climbing routes at Texas Canyon. Other guidebooks to Texas Canyon include; Best Climbs Los Angeles by Damon Corso (2014), Southern California Rock Climbing, Vol. 2 by Tom Slater (2013) and Southern California Sport Climbing, 3rd edition by Troy Mayr (2004). While these S. Cal guidebooks provide basic directions, approach information, photos, and rudimentary route topos, none of these guidebooks is comprehensive or current.  The best guidebook is Texas Canyon The Climbing Guide by Pam Neal with Ben Chapman (2019).  You'll need a copy of this last one since there is no cell reception at the crag to look things up on MountainProject on your smart phone.

THERE ARE NO TOILETS AT TEXAS CANYON, so consider your impact on this fragile environment.

The first time you do a number 2 in the wilderness, it’s intimidating. You’re out in the open, with the bugs and the poison ivy, clutching either a few precious squares of toilet paper or a pile of rocks and (hopefully smooth) leaves. Keep at it, though, and you’ll find it better faster than you think (especially if you can find a spot with a view). Learn the correct way to do your business in the wilderness and enjoy the experience with these tips.

The Gear for Your Rear

  • A sealable bag or WAG bag
  • Hand sanitizer
  • A trowel
  • Toilet paper

Choose Your Job Site

Start searching for your spot before you have to go—trust us, you don’t want to wait until your situation is desperate. LNT recommends popping a squat 200 feet—about 70 steps—from water or trails (don’t get lost). Find a private area with loose, diggable soil. Bonus points for good views.

Ready, Aim, Fire

Your cathole is your personal, single-use toilet. It should be 6 to 8 inches deep and 4 inches wide. Squat low to the ground for optimal aim—hang onto a tree trunk if you need a little support. Pack out your toilet paper in a sealable bag or place it in the cathole if local regulations allow (TP degrades quickly in wet, humid climates, more slowly in dry ones, and not at all in the desert.)

Bury the Evidence

Cover your poop with the dirt you removed from the cathole. Make it look like you were never there. Remember, your trowel should only touch dirt. Wash or sanitize your hands and revel in that weightless feeling.

WAG Bags

Some sensitive wilderness areas such as high-alpine ones, arid deserts, or high-traffic parks require the use of WAG bags instead of catholes. Check local regulations for the area where you’re camping and follow the instructions on the WAG bag’s package. Always use outhouses and pit toilets when available to minimize impact on the land.

Perhaps this should be the norm for those that can't resist.

Getting There Suggest change

Texas Canyon is an easy 30 minute drive north from the San Fernando Valley. Take the I-5 or the 405 north to Hwy 14 toward Palmdale/Lancaster. Once through Santa Clarita, exit Sand Canyon Road and turn left and continue two miles on Sand Canyon Road to the T-intersection at Sierra Hwy. Turn right on Sierra Hwy and go ~ 5 miles to Rush Canyon Road. Turn left on Rush Canyon Road (5N13), which is marked as Rowher Flats OHV area. It quickly becomes a graded dirt road. Continue on Rush Canyon Road for 1.8 miles to a gated fire road at the ridge. Park and follow the fire road as it meanders 1/4 mile to a diagonal cutoff on the right, to the now obvious crag. It is permissible to park on either side of the road, but be cautious of parking too near the gate (no parking signs).

Texas Canyon TIAD Challenge

Suggest change

Enchain / Climb all of the 10a, 10a/b routes in a day at Texas Canyon. The Tens In A Day (TIAD) consists of twenty-one routes as of 5-2-21. TIAD will be updated as new 10a/b routes are developed. 

Combined route length: 1,625 ft.

Itsy Bitsy Spider
Leather & Lace
Before The Storm
Endymion
Yellow Rose of Texas
Texas Slotterhouse
Slotterhouse
Kronos
Heart and Sole
El Matador
Mixed Emotion
Diesel
Pin Route
Black Gold
Honeybee
Texas Tea
Tusk
Buzz Killer
Debbie Does Dallas
Let It Bleed
Rhinestone Cowboy

Camping

Suggest change

Camping at Texas Canyon is legal per guidelines set by Angeles National Forest.  Google "Dispersed Camping Guidelines" to get the latest. Here is a link that specifically covers the area: https://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/angeles/maps-pubs/?cid=stelprdb5318340

Park all night at your own risk. Display your pass to avoid conflict. LEAVE NO TRACE. (as always)

Comment: Everyone has a different definition of camping.  It's pretty funny.  Drunk and disorderly with a bonfire is how rangers see it.  Be more like the bobcat; no one knows you were ever there.

196 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Texas Canyon Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Texas Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 77
Humpty Dumpty
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 96
Cascada
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 50
Buzz Worthy
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 59
Welcome to Texas Canyon
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 45
Corvus Chimney
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 88
Sophie's Choice
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 80
Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed up th…
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 59
Boneyard
Sport
Egg
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 84
Before The Storm
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 45
Rise and Shine
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 86
The Green Mile
Sport
Egg
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 13
Marshall Law
Sport
Egg
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
Three Legged Dog
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 13
El Diablo Rojo
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
38 Special
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Humpty Dumpty Diner
 77
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Cascada First Corridor
 96
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Buzz Worthy N Dallas 40
 50
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Welcome to Texas Canyon First Corridor
 59
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Corvus Chimney Tower of Babel
 45
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Sophie's Choice First Corridor
 88
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed… First Corridor
 80
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Boneyard Egg
 59
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Before The Storm First Corridor
 84
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Rise and Shine First Corridor
 45
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Green Mile Egg
 86
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Marshall Law Egg
 13
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Three Legged Dog N Dallas 40
 11
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
El Diablo Rojo E Face of the Elephan…
 13
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
38 Special E Face of the Elephan…
 7
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Texas Canyon »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading