Texas Canyon Rock Climbing
|GPS:||34.514, -118.402 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Spider Savage on Jan 5, 2010|
|Admins:||jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
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DescriptionTexas Canyon, located in the high desert, between Santa Clarita and Aqua Dulce, consists of a collection of large sandstone conglomerate domes, isolated rock formations, and boulders nestled in the rolling hills of canyon country in NW Los Angeles County. Texas Canyon or Table Rock, the USFS designation, and the nearby Rowher Flats OHV Area are managed by the USFS, in cooperation with Los Angles County, and the State of California. Texas Canyon lies at 2500 ft in elevation. Currently, Texas Canyon hosts 100+ climbing routes from 5.0 5.13b. Most routes are bolted sport routes, and require only quick draws and lead to Fixe rings, chains, or shuts/hooks. A 60 meter rope is useful in climbing and descending most formations, some up to 200 in height.
The use of the Texas Canyon/Rowher Flats area spans several thousand years when local springs and the diverse landscape provided sufficient water and food to support the Tataviam Indian village. The area has been popular with OHV enthusiasts and rock climbers since the early 1960s, as evidenced by old rusty bolts and fixed pitons on some of the formations. Loomis, Leventhal, and Draper began putting up routes as early as 1992. Savage established several moderate sport routes between 1998 - 2000. Many of the moderate lines were filled in by Chapman and Neal from 2010 -2014. The area was closed for eighteen months, due to the October 2007 Buckweed Fire. The climbing at Texas Canyon can be characterized as bolted sport climbing on abundant pockets, knobs, and inclusions or weathered cobbles protruding from the surrounding rock. Climbing varies from low angle slab to steep overhung faces. The area has become popular due to the range of quality, well protected moderate routes and the short approach. Climbing is possible year round, with the exception of the coldest and hottest days. A cautious approach is advised as the sandstone conglomerate is friable and hand and footholds frequently break. Use of a helmet can not be overemphasized, especially for belayers.
An article in the Southern California Mountaineers Association (SCMA) Cliffnotes (August 1999), by Savage, provided documentation of climbing routes at Texas Canyon. Other guidebooks to Texas Canyon include; Southern California Rock Climbing, Vol. 2 by Tom Slater (2013) and Southern California Sport Climbing, 3rd edition by Troy Mayr (2004). While both guidebooks provide basic directions, approach information, photos, and rudimentary route topos, neither guidebook is comprehensive or current. The latest route descriptions are found on the Mountain Project database. There is rumor of a new guidebook in the works.
Getting ThereTexas Canyon is an easy 30 minute drive north from the San Fernando Valley. Take the I-5 or the 405 north to Hwy 14 forward Palmdale/Lancaster. Once through Santa Clarita, exit Sand Canyon Road and turn left and continue two miles on Sand Canyon Road to the T-intersection at Sierra Hwy. Turn right on Sierra Hwy and go ~ 5 miles to Rush Canyon Road. Turn left on Rush Canyon Road (5N13), which is marked as Rowher Flats OHV area. It quickly becomes a graded dirt road. Continue on Rush Canyon Road for 1.8 miles to a gated fire road at the ridge. Park and follow the fire road as it meanders 1/4 mile to a diagonal cutoff on the right, to the now obvious crag. It is permissible to park on either side of the road, but be cautious of parking too near the gate (no parking signs).
Classic Climbing Routes at Texas Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Prime Climbing Season