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Areas in Texas Canyon

Aiguille de Texas Canyon 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Canyon , The 2 / 16 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Diner, The 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
East Face of the Elephant's Head (The Caves) 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Egg , The 2 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Elephant's Head (& Hyperion Slab), The 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Hatchery, The 1 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Hoodoo Canyon 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Lower East Side 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
North Dallas 40 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Nude Beach 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Pangea Wall (or Pangaea Wall) 3 / 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 6
Panhandle, The 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Port Royal 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Prairie Dog Town 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Spur, The 1 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Temple of Ishtar 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Tower of Babel 2 / 12 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
V Wall , The 0 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Waco Wall 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Description

Texas Canyon, located in the high desert, between Santa Clarita and Aqua Dulce, consists of a collection of large sandstone conglomerate domes, isolated rock formations, and boulders nestled in the rolling hills of canyon country in NW Los Angeles County. Texas Canyon or Table Rock, the USFS designation, and the nearby Rowher Flats OHV Area are managed by the USFS, in cooperation with Los Angles County, and the State of California. Texas Canyon lies at 2500 ft in elevation. Currently, Texas Canyon hosts 100+ climbing routes from 5.0 5.13b. Most routes are bolted sport routes, and require only quick draws and lead to Fixe rings, chains, or shuts/hooks. A 60 meter rope is useful in climbing and descending most formations, some up to 200 in height.

The use of the Texas Canyon/Rowher Flats area spans several thousand years when local springs and the diverse landscape provided sufficient water and food to support the Tataviam Indian village. The area has been popular with OHV enthusiasts and rock climbers since the early 1960s, as evidenced by old rusty bolts and fixed pitons on some of the formations. Loomis, Leventhal, and Draper began putting up routes as early as 1992. Savage established several moderate sport routes between 1998 - 2000. Many of the moderate lines were filled in by Chapman and Neal from 2010 -2014. The area was closed for eighteen months, due to the October 2007 Buckweed Fire. The climbing at Texas Canyon can be characterized as bolted sport climbing on abundant pockets, knobs, and inclusions or weathered cobbles protruding from the surrounding rock. Climbing varies from low angle slab to steep overhung faces. The area has become popular due to the range of quality, well protected moderate routes and the short approach. Climbing is possible year round, with the exception of the coldest and hottest days. A cautious approach is advised as the sandstone conglomerate is friable and hand and footholds frequently break. Use of a helmet can not be overemphasized, especially for belayers.

An article in the Southern California Mountaineers Association (SCMA) Cliffnotes (August 1999), by Savage, provided documentation of climbing routes at Texas Canyon. Other guidebooks to Texas Canyon include; Southern California Rock Climbing, Vol. 2 by Tom Slater (2013) and Southern California Sport Climbing, 3rd edition by Troy Mayr (2004). While both guidebooks provide basic directions, approach information, photos, and rudimentary route topos, neither guidebook is comprehensive or current. The latest route descriptions are found on the Mountain Project database. There is rumor of a new guidebook in the works.

Getting There

Texas Canyon is an easy 30 minute drive north from the San Fernando Valley. Take the I-5 or the 405 north to Hwy 14 forward Palmdale/Lancaster. Once through Santa Clarita, exit Sand Canyon Road and turn left and continue two miles on Sand Canyon Road to the T-intersection at Sierra Hwy. Turn right on Sierra Hwy and go ~ 5 miles to Rush Canyon Road. Turn left on Rush Canyon Road (5N13), which is marked as Rowher Flats OHV area. It quickly becomes a graded dirt road. Continue on Rush Canyon Road for 1.8 miles to a gated fire road at the ridge. Park and follow the fire road as it meanders 1/4 mile to a diagonal cutoff on the right, to the now obvious crag. It is permissible to park on either side of the road, but be cautious of parking too near the gate (no parking signs).

107 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Texas Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hyperion
Sport 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tethys
Sport 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Humpty Dumpty
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Agua Negro
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Betty Does Brownsville
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Middle Earth
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sophie's Choice
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed up the wat…
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slotterhouse
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boneyard
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Texas Chainsaw Massacre
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Before The Storm
Trad, Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bilbo Surfs Galveston
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rise and Shine
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
The Green Mile
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hyperion Elephant's Head (& Hyperion Slab) 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 2 pitches
Tethys Pangea Wall (or Pangaea Wall) 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 2 pitches
Humpty Dumpty Diner 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Agua Negro Canyon 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Betty Does Brownsville Canyon 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Middle Earth Canyon 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 2 pitches
Sophie's Choice Canyon 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed… Canyon 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Slotterhouse Egg 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Boneyard Egg 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Texas Chainsaw Massacre Egg 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Before The Storm Canyon 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Bilbo Surfs Galveston Canyon 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Rise and Shine Canyon 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Green Mile Egg 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Texas Canyon »

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Photos

You are actually correct, since it is a recreation area dispersed camping is legal. The OHV staging area would be a better choice as you could have a fire and there are bathrooms facilities. Fifteen people camping means a bunch of turds, I seem to remember a post about turds at the bottom of a climb next to the cave.

No fires are legal. During the lowest fire rating "low" in the ANF, "Wood and charcoal fires in designated sites only, in agency-provided campfire rings and stoves."

You would need a California campfire permit and shovel to be allowed to use a gas stove.

In the video at 1:27-1:29 you can see what is being burned and its not firewood that was brought in. The camera focuses on the bottle in the fire at 1:50. Tanner and Ashley are not using the area responsibly. I posted to ask others to be responsible with using the area. The video was an example of what not to do as it will create problems with the forestry service.

As for being done for decades, so was target shooting. There used to be a dozen or so sites in ANF, including Texas Canyon, for free public target shooting. Irresponsible people got them all shut down.

Mar 16, 2017
As a Saugus resident, I love seeing more development at Texas Canyon but I would hate to see it end up like Williamson due to irresponsibility. I saw this video on YouTube - youtu.be/ALWysLuMXDY

There is no camping allowed at the crag, fires are not allowed there, you can not collect the native vegetation for firewood any where in the National forest and for fuck sakes don't throw glass bottles into the fire you should not have made.

I am all for young people getting into climbing but they need to act responsibly or there will be consequences. Mar 4, 2017
Lost a There Cane :( . I really just left it near Corvus Crack and I don't live nearby. If someone finds it PM me or reply to this post and I'll pay for shipping... Or if you like it so much just keep that one and buy me another.

Thanks,

Andres Jan 18, 2016
ClimbingNewb
Canyon Country
ClimbingNewb   Canyon Country
How busy is Texas canyon on a given Saturday? Planning on going in a few weeks if the weather is acceptable. long wait times?-or- enough climbs you are likely to find an open route? -Thanks. Jan 11, 2016
DynoTee
Bellingham, WA
DynoTee   Bellingham, WA
Of all the areas I've climbed at, I was surprised to find Texas canyon with such good rock quality. The sandstone is solid, no loose sand although there may be thin holds that may fall out, but very good footholds and excellent huecos. May 31, 2015
Happy new year everyone! We had a great day of climbing after a great day of mountain biking! That is, until we got back to the parking area and my freinds 1700 dollar transition bike was cut from a 3/4 inch cable and stolen. It is such a shame that people- (excuse my language ) have to be so sh**ty-so please watch your belongings and climb safe everyone. Jan 2, 2015
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
As TC has become popular the visitor impact has become a concern. In order to protect your freedom of access, please pack out all your trash, every little bit. Pick up after others. Reduce visual impact by leaving only natural colored slings. Any gardening or landscaping must be nearly invisible to the casual viewer.


HUMAN WASTE: Pack out yer paper folks. It's the NEW cool thing to do. Bring a zip-lock for this purpose.

Really cool people pack WAG-bags. Oct 13, 2014
It's probably worth mentioning that a ranger talked to one of our Texas Canyon group and asked her to spread the word among others to display the Adventure Pass. The ranger then talked about the need for facilities for climbers there, such as toilets and picnic tables. (Just what we need--picnic tables.) I guess that's sort of like the highway patrol stopping you for going 90 miles an hour and asking you to spread the word among your friends to slow down a bit, it makes the road safer. I sure wish they'd operate that way.

However, my personal opinion, I think TC is getting overused, just the way Williamson Gorge was getting so crowded in the years before its closure. Climbers, especially beginning climbers, seem to get stuck on a favorite area, like going to the same gym all the time. Echo Cliff was that way for awhile, and now it's often a ghost town. When you get this kind of heavy use, you can expect the land managers to get concerned and want to do something about it. I'd advise spreading out a little--Devil's Punchbowl, Horse Flat, Tunnel Crags, Corpse Wall, Tick Rock, Malibu Creek, Echo Cliff--all an hour or so (or even less) from the city, all acceptable and challenging climbing on our beloved chossite. Oct 1, 2014
"National Forest Fee Area" is not the same as "Parked Vehicles Must Display an Adventure Pass". Rowher Flats seems to be a jointly administered area of California State Parks and the U.S. Forest Service. It's ambiguous as to what "fee" refers to in that sign. ORV people have to pay a California fee, and that money is used for facilities and administration of the off-road area, which is the main purpose of Rowher. Rock climbing just happened to come along because of the rocks there and is not related to ORV activity.

It seems the Forest Service loves to play games with the public. Most climbers know that the "Area Closed" signs were removed from Williamson Gorge at least three years ago. Could that be because they really don't have the right to close that area?

Since the court decision earlier this year against the Adventure Pass--the third time it has been thrown out by Federal Court--the Forest Service seems to want to propagate a sort of myth about the pass, even though most of the "Must Display" signs have been removed. All they have to do is put up the proper signs, which I'll bet they realize they have no right to do. "National Forest Fee Area" doesn't mean a thing unless there is further instruction as to what the fee is and what is required of users. And I haven't seen any such thing around Rowher, except for the information billboard about how ORV fees are used. Sep 30, 2014
As mentioned in the CAUTION in the intro. The routes are NOT clean and a helmet is advised, especially for the belayer or 2nd below. A good climber never drops rocks on others and does their best to clean potential hazards. This rock exfoliates. What is solid today may come off in your hand in a few years. Rain and heat will work things loose. Most folks establishing routes have cleaned for safety. But be wary all the time. Sep 21, 2014
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
A US District Court Judge, Terry Hatter, Jr., citing a 2012 federal appeals decision in Arizona has ruled against the US Forest Service Adventure Pass fees in Southern California. The federal judge has ruled that visitors to Southern California's four national forests DO NOT need to buy an Adventure Pass, if they are only hiking and do not use forest facilities. What the rangers and/or ticket issuers can't do is just assume that anyone who is parked at a trailhead is using the facilities and issue a citation. Of course, the US Forest Service is reviewing the decision.

May 6, 2014
Steve Hermosisima
Torrance, CA
Steve Hermosisima   Torrance, CA
I parked road side with no adventure pass expecting a $25 ticket, max. upon leaving I have a $125 fine waiting for me. Has anyone else received a fine recently because this is an outrageous price? Mar 16, 2014
NancyM Mastracchio
Acton, California
NancyM Mastracchio   Acton, California
TEXAS CANYON TO OPEN ON FRIDAY OR BEFORE (that's what the rangers told my friend today when she called). Mar 5, 2014
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
Ben, why are you even trying to go to a sandstone crag in the rain? Mar 2, 2014
Shawn Adams 1
Pasadena, California
Shawn Adams 1   Pasadena, California
How does this place compare to Big Rock? I imagine fewer people? Jan 26, 2014
Tom Beckley
Arcadia, CA
Tom Beckley   Arcadia, CA
Does anyone know what the new traverse route bolted above the overhang on the tower of ishtar? saw it on the walk out, hard first boulder moves to second bolt, saw a total of 17 bolts, whats this climb rated ? looks very fun Jan 16, 2014
Whats with all the litter?! Especially the cigarette butts! Come on people dont you have any respect for our climbing area? Please try to pickup after yourselves. Oh and who cares what something is called whether it be a corridor or a canyon? DBAD. Please pick up your trash.PLEASE PICK UP YOUR TRASH!!!! Jul 15, 2013
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Spider Savage refers to the feature as "The Canyon" in his aerial photo, and word has it that the feature will be dubbed the "The Canyon" in the upcoming guide to Southern California Sport Climbing.



Jun 5, 2013
Have you ever heard of a "canyon" that you could touch both walls at the same time? I don't know, seems like a corridor to me, but since you bring Spider Savage into this as some kind of legitimizing voice here, WTF makes him the arbitrator of any of this? He can name his routes whatever he wants but I fully can't stand the names he has put on the formations.But for the sake of argument, let's accept his word on this one:
Feb 12, 2013
Yes. Please do not chisel or glue on holds.

The rock here is pretty loose. Gluing to the matrix would be a waste.

Also the epoxy writing the rating of the climb is not good.

Some folks think that since the rock is kind of loose and the area trashed by motorcyclists, shooters and other free-for-all land uses, that anything goes. We need to keep this area clean and natural. Taking a fuss between climbers to the land managers is what will get things shut down. Please maintain high standards and respect for public lands.

PS. I do not have edit power on your posts. The owners of the site will sometimes remove slander. Debates are good. Post your words responsibly and they will help. May 9, 2012
Please stop pulling my post off! You have no right to..I did not say anything that was not true facts. The truth is hard to take isn't it.
Spider Savage I have a right to speak the truth here..I thought you were a nice guy with some ethics, do you really condone chiseling gluing adding glued holds to the rock? Comment please. May 8, 2012
Can't believe my OP was pulled! I will write on here every day!

Went to Texas Canyon a few days ago, Have not been there in a long time, I was appalled at what I saw, Glued on rocks, Drilled out pockets, Chiseled out cracks, bolted 3rd class slabs, destroyed vegetation, Bolts that were spray painted after installation rock, Full squeeze jobs next to classic routes, Etc... Do we really need another chiseled and glued Echo type pile..

Ben C has lost his mind. I am going to talk with the land managers of Bouquet Canyon/Rowher Flats, This outrageous UN-respectful destruction of a natural resource must stop.

If you pull this post it means MT Project condones Chiseling! And is not a true representative of our Sport.. May 8, 2012
Anders H
Saugus, CA and Pocatello, ID
Anders H   Saugus, CA and Pocatello, ID
Is there any trad climbing or known trad ascents at Texas Canyon? Dec 21, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Ryan I have no problem with the hangers being painted, this way they are the same color, or thereabouts, as the rock. I doubt this practice will get Texas Canyon closed, as it's an environmentally sound practice, and demonstrates a certain level of sensitivity.

It is not graffiti. Dec 2, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Guy you can borrow my old helmet, however it does have a huge hole in the top from where a falling rock hit it...

This is a nice local lead area, and while the rock is not of the highest quality the climbing is fun and engaging, plus the scenery is practically unspoiled. Chris Savage had the good taste to make the moderate Hyperion Slab routes nice and run out, which gives them a distinctly non-Sport climb feel and adds to the spice on the easier second pitches - and as such are probably more for people very steady at long run out 5.7 leads.

I have only climbed a few routes here but I would recommend adjusting the quality star rating system because it seems like we're using some other area (a granite area?) as the datum for the quality ratings, for example I would say that Hyperion is at least 3 stars based upon the surrounding climbs, it has good moves between widely spaced bolts plus a cool hanging belay. Anyway MHO. Nov 28, 2011
Guy Keesee
Moorpark, CA
Guy Keesee   Moorpark, CA
Knot trying to be a jerk, but how come Mt. Project always tells us to use Helmets.......

I don't own one, never needed one.

But to me its just a personal preference, I dont care if you use one.

Whats next?

You going to tell us what shoes to bring???

And I hope that Ben Chapman dude dosen't get this place closed because of his weak, "me first" ethic. Ben you don't need to put up crappy short climbs anymore, OK. We are growing tired of all the dead plants, chopped holds, poor bolt placements etc. that you do. Please take up bowling or some other "sport" cause you ain't a climber. Nov 25, 2011
EnFuego
Seal Beach, Ca
EnFuego   Seal Beach, Ca
I just made some calls to the Bouquet Canyon Ranger District, and they believe this entire area is closed as it's in an environmentally sensitive area. Does anybody have any additional information regarding closure to the climbing area or it being off limits? Is this area strictly enforced? Nov 8, 2011
Interested in turning over the administration of this area to another more energetic. I just don't get the time to get out there like I should. Jun 24, 2011
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
The road that accesses Texas Canyon is Rush Canyon Road, and is so marked. The sign at the turnoff from Sierra Highway indicates that the road to the left (Rush Canyon Road) leads to the Rowher Flats OHV Area.







Jun 17, 2011
Looks like new routes completed this summer on the Temple of Ishtar NW face. Please PM with route names or put them up here yourself. Oct 14, 2010
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
I just went here for my first time on Sat. Such an awesome place! Apr 19, 2010
Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain
Las Vegas, Nevada
Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain   Las Vegas, Nevada
The name of the road you turn on to get to Texas canyon is Rowher Flats, NOT Rohr Flats.




Cosmic Apr 10, 2010
There are many routes and projects in this area that have been put up over the years. Please come forward with any route knowledge, area names, route names etc. -Spider Jan 20, 2010

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