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Routes in The First Corridor

... S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Acme Top Rope Wall S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Before The Storm T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Betty Does Brownsville S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bilbo Surfs Galveston S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Booty Route, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brand X Top Rope Wall TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cascadia S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hook 'em Horns S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed up the water spout) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leather & Lace S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Middle Earth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pain at the Pump S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pick A Pocket T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pocket Change S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rise and Shine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sophie's Choice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spider's Line S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 95 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,321 total · 30/month
Shared By: Benjamin Chapman on Jul 7, 2012 with updates from duh
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Location

On the west face of The Canyon. The route begins downhill from where the base of the canyon slopes sharply downward and uphill from the bush. "Before The Storm" is the 7th line of bolts from the gap between the Egg & the Hatchery, as of March 2013. A 60 m rope will do.

Description

"Before The Storm" is located in The Canyon and is the fifth line of bolts on the west (left) side of the narrow shaded canyon formed by the Elephant's Head & the Hatchery. "Before The Storm" begins just downhill from where the base of the canyon slopes sharply downward, and uphill from the bush growing in the narrow portion of the canyon. Face climb up past three bolts to a bulge. Move up and right and over the bulge. Above the bulge the angle eases and numerous pockets lead up and slightly right to the top.

Protection

13 bolts & chain anchors.
Definitely a very high first bolt and the crux is right at the bulgey part about a third of the way up. After that the route gets slightly easier although leading is rather exposed considering there are about 4 bolts over 50ish feet. Aug 24, 2013
Matt Van
California
  5.10a
Matt Van   California
  5.10a
One of the best at Texas. After pulling the slight bulge, romp to the top on AMAZING pockets. It's long, well bolted, and has great movement. Props to the developer(s) on this one! Jun 5, 2014
BAd
  5.10b
BAd  
  5.10b
This route lived up to its reputation for great climbing. Appropriately, we climbed it before a storm moved in, clouds starting to fill the sky, the route coming in and out of shadow--beautiful! I was very thankful for a stick clip on the first bolt. The crux, as noted, is down low for obvious reasons, but the upper section will keep you thinking with fun, sustained 5.9 with enough extra space between bolts to make things a little more exciting. A great route! Feb 28, 2015
alex carey
Los Angeles, CA
  5.10b
alex carey   Los Angeles, CA
  5.10b
i dont understand these comments. did the bolt placements get a makeover as there were definitely plenty and it wasn't runout. The first bolt only took a couple moves to get to. It felt like it was in the right place to me. Great climb, most fun one i've done as texas canyon, not that ive done that many. May 27, 2017
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10b
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.10b
Alex Carey...yes, one of the FA team added a bolt in order to mediate the potential nasty fall before the previously high 1st bolt. He also added three more bolts between the crux bulge and the anchors. The retrobolt occurred in February 2017 and brought the bolt count from 9 to 13.

edit: Well of course it makes a ton of sense, as it's all true and factual. For sure and for certain. May 27, 2017
alex carey
Los Angeles, CA
  5.10b
alex carey   Los Angeles, CA
  5.10b
Well all of that makes a ton of sense. It was a great route. No gimme after the early crux. Plenty happy to have some extra bolts later on. May 28, 2017

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