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Routes in The Egg

Boneyard S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Egg-Nostic T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Egg-zillaration S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Exhilaration S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Green Mile, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slotterhouse S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Texas Chainsaw Massacre S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Urushiol T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Ben Chapman & Pam Neal (May 2011)
Page Views: 4,192 total · 49/month
Shared By: Benjamin Chapman on May 28, 2011
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

"The Green Mile" climbs the wonderfully pocketed steep face on the far right side of The Egg Cup buttress. It is easily seen to the left as one walks up the trail into the shady First Corridor.
Climb the face left of the rounded flake on splendid pockets to a high 1st bolt. Continue up and right following the line of pockets to a large inclusion on the left. The pockets end and the face bulges out to yield a committing crux on small fingery edges, then more pockets to a last bolt and a series of awesome moves to an anchor below the ledge.

Location [Suggest Change]

Left of the trail as you pass The Egg on the approach to the First Corridor proper. Just left of the rounded flake that forms the left edge of the huge hueco or solution pocket at the base of the east face of The Egg.

Protection [Suggest Change]

5 bolts & 2-ring Fixe anchor (below the ledge).
Maxm
  5.10d
Maxm  
  5.10d
Probably the best line, but also the most difficult of the four routes on this wall. None of the moves, including the crux, are particularly hard by themselves; but the overall pumpy-ness should get you panting by the end. Apr 30, 2012
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10d
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.10d
The steepest line on The Egg Cup Buttress. A sweet line of pockets, with a gently overhanging committing crux on thin edges and crimps between pockets. Nothing chiseled on this great line. Oct 3, 2012
Richard O'Neal
Lancaster, Ca
  5.10d
Richard O'Neal   Lancaster, Ca
  5.10d
Fun but difficult for my skill level. Bailed on the 4th bolt. My new Project, (get my biner back!) Any advice to fight the pump , regain my balance, and get past the crux? Feb 22, 2016
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10d
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.10d
Richard...stay relaxed, stem, and keep your hips in. Mar 1, 2016
Pam Neal  
 
FYI: Local concensus puts this route at 5.11a Oct 30, 2017

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