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Routes in The Egg

Boneyard S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Egg-Nostic T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Egg-zillaration S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Exhilaration S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Green Mile, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slotterhouse S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Texas Chainsaw Massacre S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Urushiol T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Chapman & Neal
Page Views: 1,888 total · 21/month
Shared By: Benjamin Chapman on May 28, 2011 with updates from duh
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Texas Chainsaw Massacre begins with a series of good-sized, but shallow pockets. Pockets lead to a stance below two large inclusions and the 1st bolt. Continue up the featured face on edges, cobbles, and an occasional pocket. As the angle of the slab decreases so do the number of pockets, and the footholds and handholds become smaller and less secure. Insecure friction and palming lead to the anchor. The top section once spit off the infamous Medusa for a good twelve foot leader fall.

Location

This is the 3rd route from the left side of The Egg Cup buttress. Begin at a series of large shallow pockets.

Protection

7 bolts & 2-ring Fixe anchor.

Photos

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10b
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10b
Seemingly well featured - but puzzling steep initial section leads to less steepness but distinct paucity higher up - gotta edge those tiny cobbles and hope they don't blow! Nov 28, 2011
Bobby Lanie  
5.8+
Great route, but a little chossy. The bolts for the climb next to it are annoyingly close though. Definitely not a 5.10b, more like a 5.8... also, only 40-50 feet to the fixe anchors. Jan 17, 2012
Jeffrey Constine
Los Angeles, CA
Jeffrey Constine   Los Angeles, CA
LOL,
Is a Joke May 9, 2012
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10b
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.10b
Watching Jeff take a 10 ft. whipper onto the 5th bolt was no joke. It was Karen's 1st catch of a lead fall and she did great! No joke. Sep 12, 2012
NancyM Mastracchio
Acton, California
NancyM Mastracchio   Acton, California
Yes, it's very thin higher up; I won't try leading it until I get better shoes (a la Pam's recommendation)! :) Dec 29, 2013
BAd
  5.10b
BAd  
  5.10b
Bobby, do you climb 5.12, or are we talking about the same climb? I think 10b is about right. If Agua Negro is 5.4 in your book, then maybe 5.8 fits. For the rest of us mortals, expect some 10 moves, especially up high. Fun! Reasonably clean and sold now.

BAd Feb 23, 2014
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10b
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.10b
BAd.....Bobbie may be using the Gunks rating scale...where a 5.10a is rated 5.6 (Shockley's Ceiling), a 5.10c is rated 5.9 (Maria -Direct), or a 5.7 (Gelsa), rated 5.4. If that is Bobby's datum, then Texas Chainsaw Massacre (5.10b) may feel like a 5.8+ to him. But, I'm on the same page with you regarding the 5.10b rating. Feb 23, 2014
Clara Aranovich
Los Angeles, CA
  5.10a/b
Clara Aranovich   Los Angeles, CA
  5.10a/b
Super fun, actually! Texas Canyon gets a bad rap for being chossy, which I get, but I found this route to be a quick favorite. It starts with some face climbing, then tops out on a plateau before another face section and a little bit of slab before the anchors. It may be closer to a 10a. Sep 9, 2016

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