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Routes in The Canyon

Acme Top Rope Wall S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Agua Negro S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Before The Storm T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Betty Does Brownsville S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bilbo Surfs Galveston S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Booty Route, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brand X Top Rope Wall TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hook 'em Horns S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed up the water spout) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leather & Lace S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Middle Earth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pain at the Pump S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pocket Change S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rise and Shine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rocket Man T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sophie's Choice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spider's Line S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Ben Chapman & Pam Neal
Page Views: 3,039 total, 38/month
Shared By: Benjamin Chapman on May 22, 2011
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Begin 15 feet left of "Agua Negro." Climb the low angle pocketed face past three bolts. Clip a 4th bolt and move up and left on good pockets, including a mono-digit, and dicey feet. After clipping the 5th bolt move right and pull through the bulge to large pockets and inclusions and two more bolts to the anchors.

Location

On the right (east) wall of the Elephant's Head (aka Hyperion Slab), 15 feet left of the black water streak of "Agua Negro." Begin on the low angle slab, below the bulging buttress, just left of the prominent oak tree.

Protection

7 bolts and 2-ring Fixe anchors.
Richard O'Neal
Lancaster, Ca
  5.10a
Richard O'Neal   Lancaster, Ca
  5.10a
Fun climb, good protection. Mar 20, 2016
BAd
  5.10a
BAd  
  5.10a
Thanks, Ben! We've met you and Sophie a few times. My wife and I and Django (border collie mix) love your routes. I think we've only met Pam once. Looking forward to trying some of the new ones. Dec 7, 2013
NancyM Mastracchio
Acton, California
 
NancyM Mastracchio   Acton, California
 
Thank you so much, Ben, for replacing the 5th bolt!! You're the best!!!!! We'll be out climbing tomorrow morning if you and Pam happen to be there :)
We noticed several new routes on the far right side of the Acme Top Rope Wall. There are three nice ones there, and I wondered if anyone had any information about names and ratings. We've been enjoying them, whoever put them up. Thanks again! Aug 2, 2013
NancyM Mastracchio
Acton, California
 
NancyM Mastracchio   Acton, California
 
I heard that 2 days after my post (June 12), a climber actually pulled the bolt straight out. Doesn't sound like anyone was hurt; the climber pulled it out purposely, but I guess no more leading that one until Ben does his magic with the drill :) Jun 22, 2013
NancyM Mastracchio
Acton, California
 
NancyM Mastracchio   Acton, California
 
Led this today. The fifth bolt up spins 180 degrees, and I can see that it's jutting a bit from the rock--made me nervous. Enjoyed the climb though! Jun 10, 2013
Dwook
  5.10a
Dwook  
  5.10a
Did this today...Thought it was fun. I really liked the little mono pocket half way up. Feb 22, 2012