Elevation: 761 ft
GPS: 48.452, -122.628 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 76,192 total · 528/month
Shared By: jaredvg on Aug 14, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters
Access Issue: COVID 19, Social Distancing and Parking Access Details

Description

The main wall at Mt. Erie encompasses several walls, and contains many routes with many different styles of climbing. There are steep sport routes and slabs as well as bolted and traditional multi-pitch climbs. The rock on the main wall and surrounding areas is generally solid diorite, fairly clean, and some of the quickest to dry after a rain. The cliff is South to Southwest facing, and as such, receives sun from mid morning until sunset. Climbs here range from 5.7 to 5.12. A good selection of 5.11 climbs exist on the snag buttress. The area is generally not crowded. Helmets are advisable as there are many hiking trails and ledges covered in loose rock above the cliffs.

Getting There

Parking is in a pullout on the east side of Hart Lake Road 1/8 mile north of the Lake Erie Grocery. Take the 248 trail which leads up into the woods on the right side of the gate. This trail is followed for 5-10 minutes until it comes to a T junction with the 247 trail. Take a right on this trail and walk for another 2-5 minutes, watching for a less traveled unmarked trail on the left. Head left along the less traveled trail, uphill again and into the woods towards the base of the cliff. After moving up a couple short rock steps the trail enters a clearing, which gives a good view of the routes on the Headwall and Snag Buttress. Take the trail the rest of the way up to the cliffs keeping to the right at one last fork (which goes left to Ramp Wall). The trail meets the cliff at a prominent right facing corner, which is the first pitch of Zig Zag. Total approach time is about 15 – 20 minutes.

40 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 129
Zig Zag
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 51
Undercover
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 39
Sunshine on a Dark Day
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 69
Springboard
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 26
Touching the Sky
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 31
Gotta Keep Dancin
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 23
Freedom Fighter
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
Redemption
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 35
Lord of the Dance
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
On Eagles' Wings
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 24
Raindown
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Chimney Sweep
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 41
Frogs in Space
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Dancin' with the Divine (aka the…
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
When the Cat's Away, the Mice Wi…
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Zig Zag (a) Main Wall West
 129
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Undercover (a) Main Wall West
 51
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Sunshine on a Dark Day (b) Snag Buttress
 39
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Springboard (a) Main Wall West
 69
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Touching the Sky (c) The Headwall
 26
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Gotta Keep Dancin (d) Main Wall East
 31
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Freedom Fighter (c) The Headwall
 23
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 2 pitches
Redemption (a) Main Wall West
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Lord of the Dance (d) Main Wall East
 35
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
On Eagles' Wings (a) Main Wall West
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Raindown (b) Snag Buttress
 24
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Chimney Sweep (c) The Headwall
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Frogs in Space (b) Snag Buttress
 41
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Dancin' with the Divine (ak… (d) Main Wall East
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
When the Cat's Away, the Mi… (c) The Headwall
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Wall »

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