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Areas in Main Wall

Headwall, The 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Main Wall East 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Main Wall West 5 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Snag Buttress 4 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Access Issue: Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened Details

Description

The main wall at Mt. Erie encompasses several walls, and contains many routes with many different styles of climbing. There are steep sport routes and slabs as well as bolted and traditional multi-pitch climbs. The rock on the main wall and surrounding areas is generally solid diorite, fairly clean, and some of the quickest to dry after a rain. The cliff is South to Southwest facing, and as such, receives sun from mid morning until sunset. Climbs here range from 5.7 to 5.12. A good selection of 5.11 climbs exist on the snag buttress. The area is generally not crowded. Helmets are advisable as there are many hiking trails and ledges covered in loose rock above the cliffs.

Getting There

Parking is in a pullout on the east side of Hart Lake Road 1/8 mile north of the Lake Erie Grocery. Take the 248 trail which leads up into the woods on the right side of the gate. This trail is followed for 5-10 minutes until it comes to a T junction with the 247 trail. Take a right on this trail and walk for another 2-5 minutes, watching for a less traveled unmarked trail on the left. Head left along the less traveled trail, uphill again and into the woods towards the base of the cliff. After moving up a couple short rock steps the trail enters a clearing, which gives a good view of the routes on the Headwall and Snag Buttress. Take the trail the rest of the way up to the cliffs keeping to the right at one last fork (which goes left to Ramp Wall). The trail meets the cliff at a prominent right facing corner, which is the first pitch of Zig Zag. Total approach time is about 15 – 20 minutes.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 68
Zig Zag
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 28
Undercover
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 15
Sunshine on a Dark Day
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 39
Springboard
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Touching the sky
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Gotta Keep Dancin
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Freedom Fighter
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 19
Lord of the Dance
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
Raindown
Sport, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Cat from Outer Space
Sport, TR
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 24
Frogs in Space
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Zig Zag Main Wall West
 68
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Undercover Main Wall West
 28
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Sunshine on a Dark Day Snag Buttress
 15
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Springboard Main Wall West
 39
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Touching the sky Headwall
 8
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Gotta Keep Dancin Main Wall East
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Freedom Fighter Main Wall West
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 2 pitches
Lord of the Dance Main Wall East
 19
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Raindown Snag Buttress
 11
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Cat from Outer Space Main Wall West
 4
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Frogs in Space Snag Buttress
 24
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Wall »

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Photos

smassey
CO
smassey   CO
Summer 2011 some more bolt replacement occurred here. In addition to Frogs, the route to the right of it had the 4 pro bolts replaced, as well as the anchor (now Fixe double-rings). Also, the 5th bolted route right of zigzag had all 7 pro bolts and the anchor replaced. The route two to the right of that also had the anchor replaced.

All new hardware was provided by the ASCA. 1/2"x2.75" Stainless Powers 5-piece with Fixe hangers or double-ring hangers for anchors. This stuff is expensive, so please donate to the ASCA. Sep 4, 2011

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