Elevation: 1,134 ft
GPS: 48.453, -122.627 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 297,308 total · 2,178/month
Shared By: Jim Thompson on Apr 23, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters
Access Issue: COVID 19, Social Distancing and Parking Access Details

Description

Mount Erie is actually within city limits, located just south of Anacortes. Features some 50 miles of hiking trails, as well as exceptional views of the Olympics and Puget Sound. Though it is a mountain there are no really large expanses of rock, but instead short cliffs & crags hidden in the steep madrona, fir & hemlock forests on the flanks of the mountain. With over 400 routes, good weather and great views, Mt. Erie has become a popular climbing destination. From beginner top rope training, to 5.14 sport, to mulitpitch classics, Erie's got a lot of variety.

Climbing type: sport, moderate and mixed routes. There are many opportunities for top rope climbing as well.

Gear: small rack of gear to 3 inches and  quickdraws. All routes can be descended with a single 60-meter rope.

Rock type: diorite, highly textured and featured, excellent to climb on but few continuous cracks of any significant length.

Weather: located in the rain shadow of the Olympics, so offers the potential for dry climbing year round. March to October best, always bring layers.

Camping: no camping on Mount Erie, but several campgrounds nearby.

Further Reference: Rockin' on the Rock: A Guide to Mt. Erie Climbing, by Dallas Kloke, Jim Thompson and Aaron Bryant. The print guide is available at the Lake Erie Grocery Store at the base of Mt. Erie. The digital version is available on rakkup which provides a map and navigation assistance to the myriad crags at Mt. Erie. The rakkup guide is always the most up to date source as routes are added and revised by local climbers. The Mt. Erie Facebook page provides information on route updates and events.

Getting There

Drive time from Seattle: 1.5 hours
Approach times: 5-30 minutes
Getting there: Exit I-5 at Burlington and take SR 20 west for about 15 minutes. Make left at roundabout (still on SR 20) head towards Deception Pass (worth seeing on its own). In a few miles reach a fork & trend right on Campbell Lake Road. Mount Erie will be visible on the right. In a few more miles the Mount Erie Grocery (stop for beer or Kloke's guide book) marks the right-hand turn onto Heart Lake Road, & in one more mile the state road to the top will branch off to the right. Several miles up the winding road leads to the summit parking areas. There is limited parking at the base of Mt. Erie just up the road from the store. Please do not block the white private gate or neighbors' driveways. A few cars can also park by the two giant fir trees on Heart Lake road to access the West Buttress trail.

265 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Erie

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 60
The Open Book
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 108
Zig Zag
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 46
Undercover
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 23
Alan Henshaw pre-memorial route
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
Lord of Creation
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 100
False Impressions
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 58
Springboard
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 32
Neverending Story
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 41
Lasting Impressions
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 88
Intimidator
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 27
Lord of the Dance
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 40
Terminator
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
Wallace's Memorial Route
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 45
Lethal Weapon
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 37
Frogs in Space
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Open Book Summit Wall
 60
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Zig Zag Main Wall > Snag Buttress
 108
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Undercover Main Wall > Main Wall West
 46
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Alan Henshaw pre-memorial r… Wall C
 23
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Lord of Creation Cirque
 17
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
False Impressions Powerline Wall West
 100
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Springboard Main Wall > Main Wall West
 58
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Neverending Story Powerline Wall West
 32
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Lasting Impressions Powerline Wall West
 41
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Intimidator Powerline Wall West
 88
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Lord of the Dance Main Wall > Main Wall East
 27
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Terminator Powerline Wall West
 40
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Wallace's Memorial Route Pigeon Stool Gr… > End of the Rope Crag
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Lethal Weapon Powerline Wall West
 45
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Frogs in Space Main Wall > Snag Buttress
 37
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mount Erie »

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