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Areas in Mount Erie

Big Snag Wall 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Black Wall 8 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Cirque, The 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Crack Wall 2 / 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Friction Slab 1 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Hidden Wall North 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Lookout Wall 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Lumpy Crag 0 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Madrone Wall 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Main Wall 13 / 7 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Moss Wall 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Mt Erie and Fidalgo Island Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 30 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 30
Nelson's Wall 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
New Millennium Wall 6 / 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Orange Wall 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Orange Wall Slab 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Pigeon Stool Wall 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Powerline Wall West 5 / 14 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Ramp Wall 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Skyline Arete 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Summit Wall 7 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Sunset Slabs 1 / 5 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Wall C 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Elevation: 1,300 ft
GPS: 48.453, -122.627 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 100,445 total, 957/month
Shared By: Eliza Penick on Apr 23, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick
Sorry, weather is currently unavailable.

Description

  • *Most of the description is taken from a local guide book--see below for details**
Mount Erie is actually within city limits, located just south of Anacortes. Features some 30 miles of hiking trails, as well as popular teenage party sites & exceptional views of the Olympics and Puget Sound. Though it is a mountain there are no really large expanses of rock, but instead short cliffs & crags hidden in the steep madrona, fir & hemlock forests on the flanks of the mountain. For decades a virtual backwater of the Washington climbing experience, it now seems perched on the edge of a renaissance as the growing number of modern climbs become more widely known (this visitor went on a weekday in April & was alone on the mountain).
Three main features: Powerline Wall, The Snag Buttress & Summit Wall.
Climbing type: sport, moderate trad routes, & a few mixed routes (good opportunities for top rope also)
Gear: small rack of gear to 3 inches & quickdraws. Most routes can be descended with a single 50-meter rope.
Rock type: diorite, highly textured & featured, excellent to climb on but few continuous cracks & cliffs of any significant size.
Weather: located in the rain shadow of the Olympics, so offers the potential for dry climbing year round. March to October best, always bring layers.
Camping: no camping on Mount Erie, but several campgrounds nearby.
Further Reference: Weekend Rock (WA) by David Whitelaw & Climbing Mount Erie by Dallas Kloke.
Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened Details

Getting There

Drive time from Seattle: 1.5 hours
Approach times: 5-30 minutes
Getting there: Exit I-5 at Burlington and take SR 20 west for about 15 minutes. Make left at obvious stoplight & (still on SR 20) head out towards Deception Pass (worth seeing on its own). In a few miles reach a fork & trend right on Campbell Lake Road. Mount Erie will be visible on the right. In a few more miles the Mount Erie Grocery (stop for beer or Kloke's guide book) marks the right-hand turn onto Heart Lake Road, & in one more mile the state road to the top will branch off to the right. Several miles up the winding road leads to the summit parking areas.

144 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Erie

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V4 6B
Donkey Punch
Boulder
V7 7A+
Giant Slayer
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
The Open Book
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Undercover
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Alan Henshaw pre-memorial route
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lord of Creation
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Impressions
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Springboard
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Freedom Fighter
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Intimidator
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the Dance
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lethal Weapon
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sunkist
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Frogs in Space
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Donkey Punch Mt Erie and Fidal… > The Goliath Boulder V4 6B Boulder
Giant Slayer Mt Erie and Fidal… > The Goliath Boulder V7 7A+ Boulder
The Open Book Summit Wall 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Zig Zag Main Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Undercover Main Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Alan Henshaw pre-memorial r… Wall C 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Lord of Creation Cirque 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
False Impressions Powerline Wall West 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Springboard Main Wall 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Freedom Fighter Main Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 2 pitches
Intimidator Powerline Wall West 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Lord of the Dance Main Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Lethal Weapon Powerline Wall West 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Sunkist Orange Wall 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Frogs in Space Main Wall 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
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Visit facebook.com/mterieclimbing for the latest news, updates and climbing routes. Mar 9, 2013
The annual Dallas Kloke Mt. Erie Work Day is coming up on Saturday, April 20. Work projects in the morning and climbing in the afternoon. Photographers will be there to capture great climbing shots for the upcoming 2nd Edition of the Mt. Erie Guidebook. Mar 9, 2013
A revised edition of Dallas Kloke's Mt. Erie Guidebook is in the works! If you have any questions, route beta or photos you'd like to submit, please send them to mterieguidebook@gmail.com Nov 11, 2012
Jason Chinchen
Bend, Oregon
Jason Chinchen   Bend, Oregon
RIP Dallas. Thanks for all the hard work in the name of climbing. Mar 8, 2012
Dallas Kloke is perhaps the person most reponsible for establishing, developing, and caring for Mt. Erie. The amount of work creating real trails (instead of social trails everywhere), scrubbing moss off of routes, clearing dead debris and branches away, taking fledgling climbers under his wing, and perhaps most importantly chronicling all of the routes has helped Mt. Erie become all that it is for those of us who have climbed there.

Dallas passed away while decending 4th class (but exposed) rock in the North Cascades when a hold broke and he fell to his death in September of 2010. He was a man of deep faith in God and Jesus Christ, and he was my climbing mentor for about the first 6 years that I climbed. Dallas, you are missed but your kindness, devotion, and love for Mt. Erie will not be forgotten. Sep 19, 2011
hi my name is Cody Brua i am moving to Mt Vernon WA on January 1 and i don't know any one who climbs up their so if any wants or needs a new climbing partner i am free ever weekend Dec 22, 2010

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