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Dancin' with the Divine (aka the Dallas Kloke Memorial Route)

5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British


 Avg: 4 from 1 vote

Routes in Main Wall

Cat from Outer Space S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crack'n the Code T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dancin' with the Divine (aka the Dallas Kloke Memorial Route) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Freedom Fighter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Frogs in Space T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gotta Keep Dancin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jeopardy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
LGK T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laus Deo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinhead T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raindown S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ray Auld Memorial Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Springboard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunshine on a Dark Day T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Touching the sky S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Undercover T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Established by Calvin Landrus and Jim Thompson, FFA pitch 1 Calvin Landrus, FFA pitch 2 Tyler Thompson
Page Views: 767 total, 38/month
Shared By: Calvin Landrus on Apr 18, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened Details

Description

PITCH 1: Climb the first pitch of Lord of the Dance (5.7) or Dance with Ticks (5.10c/d)
PITCH 2: From belay, move left up crack placing gear, move into overhanging corner with three bolts. Short pitch 40'. (5.10c)
PITCH 3: Climb corners and slab with two bolts to broken overhanging crack with two bolts. Continue up and left in crack. Reach over and clip one bolt from the crack and then fire the crux (5.11c). 30 feet of exposured 5.10 climbing pass three more bolts. 90' pitch.

Location

Main Wall East. One can come in from the top of Mt. Erie and rappel the route.

Protection

Mainly bolts with occasional gear placements (cams from 0.4" to 3").

Photos

Just checked this out today. With a little more traffic, could be one of the best routes at Erie. Definitely some loose/less-than-confidence inspiring blocks on the 10c pitch but overall very cool. Nice work. Sep 28, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Thanks Calvin for the clarification.

It's nice knowing some of the history of a route as well, as you provided. Apr 19, 2016
Calvin Landrus
Bend, OR
 
Calvin Landrus   Bend, OR
 
Jim is a local (he and another guy took over publishing Dallas's guidebook for Mt. Erie). He has all the gear for putting in bolts so with his help, we put the line in during August of 2015. I was not in great climbing shape and failed to repoint the second pitch after multiply tries. Tyler is Jim's son and he had chance to climb the route clean before I got back to Mt. Erie. Therefore, I can't claim the First Free Ascent (FFA) of that pitch; that goes to Tyler. Thanks for asking for the clarification. Apr 19, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Looks fantastic, thanks for putting it up.

In the FA info, you have both a Jim and a Tyler Thompson. Same person? And what is the relation between the "established by" and the "FFA"? Apr 18, 2016