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Routes in Snag Buttress

Frogs in Space T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jeopardy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Laus Deo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinhead T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raindown S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sunshine on a Dark Day T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: Ford, Beane
Page Views: 2,424 total · 22/month
Shared By: jaredvg on Aug 14, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened Details

Description

This is a very fun climb up a steep face with a broken crack system. The climb has a great combination of balance, crimping, crack technique, and technical footwork. The crux seems to be at the third bolt where a short overhanging block must be overcome. The climbing is sustained and a bit pumpy. A combination of bolts and gear provide protection. Fortunately, the bolts protect the hardest moves.

Location

This is the first bolted climb on the face to the right of the first pitch on Zig Zag. Belay directly from the trail.

Protection

4 bolts and gear to 2"
bolted anchor at the top

Photos

Probably one of the top 3 best pitches at Mt. Erie Aug 17, 2009
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
Aug 2011, the ASCA replaced the first three bolts on this route with 1/2x2.75" SS. The fourth is in decent shape. The third was actually broken in the hole, and was held in by two threads... Sep 4, 2011

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