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Routes in Main Wall

Cat from Outer Space S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cowboys Don't Cry S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack'n the Code T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dances With Ticks T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dancin' with the Divine (aka the Dallas Kloke Memorial Route) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Freedom Fighter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Frogs in Space T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gotta Keep Dancin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jeopardy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
LGK T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laus Deo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinhead T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raindown S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ray Auld Memorial Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ride'm Cowgirl S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Springboard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunshine on a Dark Day T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Touching the sky S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Undercover T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: Ford, Beane
Page Views: 2,321 total · 22/month
Shared By: jaredvg on Aug 14, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is a very fun climb up a steep face with a broken crack system. The climb has a great combination of balance, crimping, crack technique, and technical footwork. The crux seems to be at the third bolt where a short overhanging block must be overcome. The climbing is sustained and a bit pumpy. A combination of bolts and gear provide protection. Fortunately, the bolts protect the hardest moves.

Location [Suggest Change]

This is the first bolted climb on the face to the right of the first pitch on Zig Zag. Belay directly from the trail.

Protection [Suggest Change]

4 bolts and gear to 2"
bolted anchor at the top

Photos

Probably one of the top 3 best pitches at Mt. Erie Aug 17, 2009
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
Aug 2011, the ASCA replaced the first three bolts on this route with 1/2x2.75" SS. The fourth is in decent shape. The third was actually broken in the hole, and was held in by two threads... Sep 4, 2011

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