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Routes in Main Wall

Cat from Outer Space S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crack'n the Code T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dancin' with the Divine (aka the Dallas Kloke Memorial Route) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Freedom Fighter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Frogs in Space T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gotta Keep Dancin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jeopardy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
LGK T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laus Deo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinhead T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raindown S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ray Auld Memorial Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Springboard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunshine on a Dark Day T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Touching the sky S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Undercover T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: Ford, Beane
Page Views: 2,097 total, 21/month
Shared By: jaredvg on Aug 14, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened Details

Description

This is a very fun climb up a steep face with a broken crack system. The climb has a great combination of balance, crimping, crack technique, and technical footwork. The crux seems to be at the third bolt where a short overhanging block must be overcome. The climbing is sustained and a bit pumpy. A combination of bolts and gear provide protection. Fortunately, the bolts protect the hardest moves.

Location

This is the first bolted climb on the face to the right of the first pitch on Zig Zag. Belay directly from the trail.

Protection

4 bolts and gear to 2"
bolted anchor at the top

Photos

smassey
CO
smassey   CO
Aug 2011, the ASCA replaced the first three bolts on this route with 1/2x2.75" SS. The fourth is in decent shape. The third was actually broken in the hole, and was held in by two threads... Sep 4, 2011
Probably one of the top 3 best pitches at Mt. Erie Aug 17, 2009