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Routes in Main Wall East

Dances With Ticks T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dancin' with the Divine (aka the Dallas Kloke Memorial Route) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gotta Keep Dancin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lord of the Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 180 ft, 3 pitches
FA: S. Trent, D. Kloke 2004
Page Views: 2,029 total · 51/month
Shared By: Andrew Davidson on Jul 20, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened Details

Description

This is an awesome climb up the right side of the Main Wall. 3 pitches get you to the Top, great exposure.

P1: 5.7 60' 5 Bolts; Start on the belay ledge heading up on good holds staying in a corner. Route leads a bit towards the left to a sloping ledge with the anchor.
P2: 5.10a 40' 4 Bolts; Starts off on great holds on the left going up and traversing right. The crux comes at the second bolt and well protected. Do some blocky climbing up to the anchor.
P3: 5.8 80' 5 Bolts; Great pitch, starting up some hollow flakes with good holds. Leading up to a large crack under an overhang that almost feels like chimney in some parts. Goes up and left, clip the fixed Hex, and step onto the face. another 15' to the anchor.

Descent: One double rope rappel or 2 Single Rope Rappels

Location

Back up in Gruesome Gully. Has a nice belay platform just below and left of Gotta Keep Dancin.

Can get there by traversing right on the ledges below Snag Buttress or follow the trail from Pigeon Stool Wall. There is a blank Sign hanging from a tree marking the turn to go up Gruesome Gully.

Protection

Quickdraws
Pro to 2"
Bolted Anchors with Chains
Fixed Hex on P3
60m Rope.
Tess Wendel
Seattle, WA
 
Tess Wendel   Seattle, WA
 
First pitch is fun, definitely steeper climbing than other 5.7s, I actually placed a .75 inbetween last bolt and anchor chains because the fall wouldn't be fun if you messed up mantling onto the belay ledge. We pulled off a crimp hold on pitch 2- rock quality leaves something to be desired. Hopefully a couple more don't fall off otherwise "10a" is quickly going to become a lot harder. Top pitch has some good jugs and is fun climbing but gear is not straightforward so wouldn't necessarily recommend for beginner trad lead. Jun 12, 2017
Michael Pepera
Bellingham
 
Michael Pepera   Bellingham
 
Love this route. Pitch 1 is nothing to write home about. Pitches 2/3 are some of the best at Erie. Would be 4 star with a better first pitch and no loose rock on pitch 2. Replace pitch 1 with "Dances with Ticks" (5.10c/d) for an even more enjoyable outing! Dec 10, 2017
Travis Gomez
Sedro Woolley, WA
 
Travis Gomez   Sedro Woolley, WA
 
This route is wild. Pitches 2 and 3 are best. Plenty of loose-ish rock. Fixed hex still in good shape. Apr 20, 2018

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