Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches
FA: S. Trent, D. Kloke (2004)
Page Views: 5,421 total · 45/month
Shared By: Andrew Davidson on Jul 20, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan
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Description Suggest change

This is an awesome climb up the right side of the Main Wall, with excellent exposure. 3 mostly bolted pitches lead to the top.

P1 (5.7, 60ft, 5 bolts) - Start on the belay ledge and head up on good holds, staying in a corner. Route leads a bit towards the left to a sloping ledge with the anchor. You can place a .5 before the chains.

P2 (5.10a, 40ft, 4 bolts) - Begin with a short layback below the roof, then sidepull/tension your way right. The crux comes at the second bolt and is very well protected. Finish on 5.8 blocky climbing to the anchor on a small ledge.

P3 (5.8, 80ft, 5 bolts & pro to 2") - An exposed and thought-provoking pitch. Start up some hollow flakes with good holds past 3 bolts. Place a few pieces and clip a couple bolts up and left through the crack/overhang/horizontal chimney. After pulling onto the headwall continue up 15 feet of 5.7 to the anchors.

Descent: 60m rope minimum. One double rope rappel or 2 single rope rappels.

Moody and scenic video of the second (crux) pitch: youtu.be/V2sT2WRQJck

Location Suggest change

Back up in Gruesome Gully. Has a nice belay platform just below and left of Gotta Keep Dancin.

Can get there by traversing right on the ledges below Snag Buttress or follow the trail from Pigeon Stool Wall. There is a blank Sign hanging from a tree marking the turn to go up Gruesome Gully.

Protection Suggest change

6 quickdraws

Pro to 2"

Bolted anchors with rap rings

60m Rope (2 single rope raps to get off)

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Photos

The rap
The rap
 5
Ben getting up to the anchors of P3
Ben getting up to the anchors of P3
 4
Alex Heck on crux pitch, DO NOT be overwhelmed by trad label, very climbable with confident leader if rack gets left in car. Beware choss.
Alex Heck on crux pitch, DO NOT be overwhelmed…
 3
Steve heading into the “crack” which is really a narrow chimney mixed with face climbing to the left of it.
Steve heading into the “crack” which is really…
 4
Adam Maxwell making the transition from the crack to the face on pitch 3.
Adam Maxwell making the transition from the cra…
 2
Nearing the top of the first pitch
Nearing the top of the first pitch
 1
Ben at Pitch 1 anchors
Ben at Pitch 1 anchors
 2
Pitch 1 (5.7+) of Lord of the Dance, Mt Erie. The purple sling is on the first bolt
Pitch 1 (5.7+) of Lord of the Dance, Mt Erie. T…
 1
Looking up at Lord of the Dance from the belay ledge.
Looking up at Lord of the Dance from the belay…
 1
This is the 2nd pitch (the crux), with significant and pretty stiff 5.10+ moves. Super fun but be ready. Also, the route ascends to the left of the giant flake, probably should be another bolt but whatever, it's easy climbing. Jugs with a potential swing
This is the 2nd pitch (the crux), with signific…
 0

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