Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches
FA: S. Trent, D. Kloke 2004
Page Views: 4,148 total · 54/month
Shared By: Andrew Davidson on Jul 20, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID 19, Social Distancing and Parking Access Details

Description

This is an awesome climb up the right side of the Main Wall, with excellent exposure. 3 mostly bolted pitches lead to the top.

P1 (5.7, 60ft, 5 bolts) - Start on the belay ledge and head up on good holds, staying in a corner. Route leads a bit towards the left to a sloping ledge with the anchor. You can place a .5 before the chains.

P1 (5.10a, 40ft, 4 bolts) - Begin with a short lieback below the roof, then sidepull/tension your way right. The crux comes at the second bolt and is very well protected. Finish on 5.8 blocky climbing to the anchor on a small ledge.

P3 (5.8, 80ft, 5 bolts) - An exposed and thought-provoking pitch. Start up some hollow flakes with good holds past 3 bolts. Place a few pieces and clip a couple bolts up and left through the crack/overhang/horizontal chimney. After pulling onto the headstall continue up 15 feet of 5.7 to the anchors.

Descent: 60m rope minimum. One double rope rappel or 2 single rope rappels.

Location

Back up in Gruesome Gully. Has a nice belay platform just below and left of Gotta Keep Dancin.

Can get there by traversing right on the ledges below Snag Buttress or follow the trail from Pigeon Stool Wall. There is a blank Sign hanging from a tree marking the turn to go up Gruesome Gully.

Protection

6 quickdraws

Pro to 2"

Bolted anchors with rap rings

60m Rope (2 single rope raps to get off)

Photos