Avg: 2.7 from 40 votes
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||S. Trent, D. Kloke 2004|
|Page Views:||4,148 total · 54/month|
|Shared By:||Andrew Davidson on Jul 20, 2015 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
This is an awesome climb up the right side of the Main Wall, with excellent exposure. 3 mostly bolted pitches lead to the top.
P1 (5.7, 60ft, 5 bolts) - Start on the belay ledge and head up on good holds, staying in a corner. Route leads a bit towards the left to a sloping ledge with the anchor. You can place a .5 before the chains.
P1 (5.10a, 40ft, 4 bolts) - Begin with a short lieback below the roof, then sidepull/tension your way right. The crux comes at the second bolt and is very well protected. Finish on 5.8 blocky climbing to the anchor on a small ledge.
P3 (5.8, 80ft, 5 bolts) - An exposed and thought-provoking pitch. Start up some hollow flakes with good holds past 3 bolts. Place a few pieces and clip a couple bolts up and left through the crack/overhang/horizontal chimney. After pulling onto the headstall continue up 15 feet of 5.7 to the anchors.
Descent: 60m rope minimum. One double rope rappel or 2 single rope rappels.
Can get there by traversing right on the ledges below Snag Buttress or follow the trail from Pigeon Stool Wall. There is a blank Sign hanging from a tree marking the turn to go up Gruesome Gully.