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Routes in Main Wall

Cat from Outer Space S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crack'n the Code T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dancin' with the Divine (aka the Dallas Kloke Memorial Route) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Freedom Fighter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Frogs in Space T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gotta Keep Dancin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jeopardy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
LGK T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laus Deo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinhead T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raindown S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ray Auld Memorial Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Springboard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunshine on a Dark Day T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Touching the sky S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Undercover T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 3 pitches
FA: S. Trent, D. Kloke 2004
Page Views: 1,596 total, 56/month
Shared By: Andrew Davidson on Jul 20, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened Details

Description

This is an awesome climb up the right side of the Main Wall. 3 pitches get you to the Top, great exposure.

P1: 5.7 60' 5 Bolts; Start on the belay ledge heading up on good holds staying in a corner. Route leads a bit towards the left to a sloping ledge with the anchor.
P2: 5.10a 40' 4 Bolts; Starts off on great holds on the left going up and traversing right. The crux comes at the second bolt and well protected. Do some blocky climbing up to the anchor.
P3: 5.8 80' 5 Bolts; Great pitch, starting up some hollow flakes with good holds. Leading up to a large crack under an overhang that almost feels like chimney in some parts. Goes up and left, clip the fixed Hex, and step onto the face. another 15' to the anchor.

Descent: One double rope rappel or 2 Single Rope Rappels

Location

Back up in Gruesome Gully. Has a nice belay platform just below and left of Gotta Keep Dancin.

Can get there by traversing right on the ledges below Snag Buttress or follow the trail from Pigeon Stool Wall. There is a blank Sign hanging from a tree marking the turn to go up Gruesome Gully.

Protection

Quickdraws
Pro to 2"
Bolted Anchors with Chains
Fixed Hex on P3
60m Rope.
Tess Wendel
Seattle, WA
 
Tess Wendel   Seattle, WA
 
First pitch is fun, definitely steeper climbing than other 5.7s, I actually placed a .75 inbetween last bolt and anchor chains because the fall wouldn't be fun if you messed up mantling onto the belay ledge. We pulled off a crimp hold on pitch 2- rock quality leaves something to be desired. Hopefully a couple more don't fall off otherwise "10a" is quickly going to become a lot harder. Top pitch has some good jugs and is fun climbing but gear is not straightforward so wouldn't necessarily recommend for beginner trad lead. Jun 12, 2017