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Washington
> Northwest Region
> San Juan, Fidal…
> Mt Erie
> (g) Main Wall
> (d) The Headwall
When the Cat's Away, the Mice Will Play
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 8
votes
Routes in (d) The Headwall
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Chimney Sweep S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Freedom Fighter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rat-catcher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Ray Auld Memorial Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Touching the Sky S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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When the Cat's Away, the Mice Will Play S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | Ken Beane 1989 |
| Page Views: | 2,067 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | IJMayer on Jan 4, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Description
Really fun slightly over-hanging climbing on crimps and side pulls.
Somehow get to the 3 bolt anchor (the p2 anchors on Touching the Sky), then make some easy moves right and up to gain a small ledge. Once you're standing on the ledge, the business begins. Sidepulls and crimps get you past two bolts to a positive hold and the 3rd bolt. Do a short traverse left on small crimps, then straight up on more sidepulls and increasingly positive holds to some random bolts on a ledge. The closest rap anchor is farther left.
I feel like the style dictates how hard this pitch is. On TR it feels like .11d/.12a, and clipping bolts would probably feel about the same. However, because the gear options do not line up with good clipping holds, a gear lead would be much more demanding, and would be significantly more proud and difficult.
Somehow get to the 3 bolt anchor (the p2 anchors on Touching the Sky), then make some easy moves right and up to gain a small ledge. Once you're standing on the ledge, the business begins. Sidepulls and crimps get you past two bolts to a positive hold and the 3rd bolt. Do a short traverse left on small crimps, then straight up on more sidepulls and increasingly positive holds to some random bolts on a ledge. The closest rap anchor is farther left.
I feel like the style dictates how hard this pitch is. On TR it feels like .11d/.12a, and clipping bolts would probably feel about the same. However, because the gear options do not line up with good clipping holds, a gear lead would be much more demanding, and would be significantly more proud and difficult.
Location
This line goes up from the P2 anchors on "Touching the Sky." You can get there via Ray Auld or Touching the Sky. You can also get there from the top of the cliff and rappel in, by hiking down from the summit area, past moss wall, and following trails. The top area is a big, flat, grassy area with some bolted anchors (but no rap rings).
Protection
Four quality bolts protect the climb nicely, with fixed steel draws at the anchor. Or, be bold and lead it on small offset nuts and gear (nothing bigger than a blue (.3) c4 plus a .75 and #2 camalot and some runners, or TR it by extending an anchor over the lip of the headwall to avoid rope drag.
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