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Routes in Main Wall

Cat from Outer Space S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crack'n the Code T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dancin' with the Divine (aka the Dallas Kloke Memorial Route) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Freedom Fighter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Frogs in Space T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gotta Keep Dancin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jeopardy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
LGK T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laus Deo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinhead T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raindown S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ray Auld Memorial Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Springboard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunshine on a Dark Day T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Touching the sky S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Undercover T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Killien, Kloke
Page Views: 5,528 total, 54/month
Shared By: jaredvg on Aug 14, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened Details

Description

Zig Zag is one of the area classics, and one of the longest climbs on Mt. Erie. As described here, pitch 2 and 3 can easily be linked. From the top of Zig Zag there are several options. One can scramble gullies to the top of Mt. Erie, climb Springboard, or rappel the route.
Pitch 1
Climb the right facing corner onto a wide ledge at its top. From this ledge, hand traverse up a flake, eventually mantling onto its top. From here gain the slab and climb directly to the visible chains above.
Pitch 2
This pitch offers several options. The original route heads up discontinuous cracks and ramps on the slab to the right, ending at a belay on top of the snag buttress. Another option (better in my opinion) is to climb Undercover to the Springboard ledge on top of Zig Zag.
Pitch 3
Head directly up from the Snag Buttress to a ledge below a roof. From this ledge, undercling and lieback around the right side of the roof. The pitch tops out on another large ledge with a horizontal tree and a bolted anchor.

Location

This route starts to the left of the Snag Buttress in a prominent right facing corner.
This is approximately where the trail meets the cliff.

Protection

Gear to 2"
Tavish Hansen
Seattle, Washington
 
Tavish Hansen   Seattle, Washington
 
Someone is messing with gravity and taking upward whippers. Oct 4, 2017
how did that cam even get there? the direction of force is up. Also, there is a nut on pitch 2 that looks easy enough to get out. Jun 29, 2017
Kyle Elliott
Everett, WA
 
Kyle Elliott   Everett, WA
 
There's a fixed cam about 8' up, that appeared some time in the last few months. Jan 3, 2017
Scott Brown
Bellingham
 
Scott Brown   Bellingham
 
Climbed this route two weeks ago and the flake(the "hand traverse" leading to the slab) at the top of the first pitch actually moved a bit. there looked to be a thin crack at the bottom.. it would be a fairly hefty rock to drop onto your belayer... although there is a bit of a variation just to the right that was much more solid. Aug 11, 2016
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
 
A good route with a great view and enjoyable climbing. Not to be missed. IMO the best way to do this route is in two pitches. First pitch heads up a corner then a hand traverse along a rail deposits you at a set of chains on the slab. There should be a set of chains to your right. From the left hand set of chains follow a couple bolts up to the crack feature, then head right and follow the feature all the way around to pull onto the ledge above. Two raps with a 70m from this ledge (with the fallen tree) gets you to the ground.

If you choose to do it the way its originally described, I found a couple #1 and #2 c3's were helpful to adequately protect the slab on the 2nd pitch.
Jul 18, 2016
J Sundstrom
San Diego, CA
J Sundstrom   San Diego, CA
Rapped from the P3 anchors to the anchors for Frogs in Space or Pinhead. With a 60, you will BARELY... actually, you won't make it without some sketchy down climbing. Unless you're heavy. With a 70 it wouldn't be a problem. FYI. Jul 18, 2015
Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
 
Curt Veldhuisen   Bellingham, WA
 
THE moderate classic on Erie! First and third pitches are some of the best easy trad pitches around. Middle slabby pitch is not hard but has limited pro. Agree that Undercover corner to left is better climbing and gets you to the same spot. Feb 14, 2014