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Zig Zag
5.7,
Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 2.6 from 170
votes
FA: Dallas Kloke & Mike Killien (1963)
Washington
> Northwest Region
> San Juan, Fidal…
> Mt Erie
> (g) Main Wall
> (b) Main Wall West
Description
Zig Zag is one of the area classics, and one of the longest climbs on Mt. Erie. As described here, pitch 2 and 3 can easily be linked. From the top of Zig Zag there are several options. One can scramble gullies to the top of Mt. Erie, climb Springboard, or rappel the route.
Pitch 1
Climb the right facing corner onto a wide ledge at its top. From this ledge, hand traverse up a flake, eventually mantling onto its top. From here gain the slab and climb directly to the visible chains above.
Pitch 2
This pitch offers several options. The original route heads up discontinuous cracks and ramps on the slab to the right, ending at a belay on top of the snag buttress. Another option (better in my opinion) is to climb Undercover to the Springboard ledge on top of Zig Zag.
Pitch 3
Head directly up from the Snag Buttress to a ledge below a roof. From this ledge, undercling and lieback around the right side of the roof. The pitch tops out on another large ledge with a horizontal tree and a bolted anchor.
Location
This route starts to the left of the Snag Buttress in a prominent right facing corner.
This is approximately where the trail meets the cliff.
Protection
Gear to 2"
![The start of zig zag, and several other routes.]()
[Hide Photo] The start of zig zag, and several other routes.
![First half (or 3/4th) of first pitch of Zig Zag]()
[Hide Photo] First half (or 3/4th) of first pitch of Zig Zag
![Looking south over Lake Campbell into Skagit Bay from the 3rd belay on Zig Zag.]()
[Hide Photo] Looking south over Lake Campbell into Skagit Bay from the 3rd belay on Zig Zag.
![Looking down pitch two just before the fun corner]()
[Hide Photo] Looking down pitch two just before the fun corner
![Looking up at Zig Zag Pitch 2.]()
[Hide Photo] Looking up at Zig Zag Pitch 2.
![Looking up at the 2nd pitch. Follow the flakes up and right, and then up a right facing corner under a tree on a ledge.]()
[Hide Photo] Looking up at the 2nd pitch. Follow the flakes up and right, and then up a right facing corner under a tree on a ledge.
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Bellingham, WA
San Diego, CA
The Old Pueblo, AZ
If you choose to do it the way its originally described, I found a couple #1 and #2 c3's were helpful to adequately protect the slab on the 2nd pitch.
Jul 18, 2016
Bellingham
Granite falls
Granite falls
Seattle, WA
Seattle, WA
Wittmann, AZ
Pitch Two. Ascend slabs then rightward crack system to a lie back ( a small bulge / roof ) this ends at a large tree that can be used for belay anchors.
Pitch Three. we went onto the limb of the tree to obtain a crack system and found an old piton to clip into. I think Fred Beckey put it there years ago. this is exposed 5.3 We rappelled the route. Jun 8, 2020
Oakland, CA
Phoenix, AZ
P1: I'd give this pitch 1.5 stars. It protects well for the majority of the climb and has some reasonably fun stemming/jamming you can do but then leads to an awkward ledge with questionable rock. The flake Michael is referring to is definitely loose and would be of questionable strength to use for pro. As a result, I wasn't able to confidently protect this ledge pull. I placed a yellow, #2 Metolius in a shallow crack, and that was my last piece before the remaining 15-20 feet to the anchor. After gaining the ledge onto the slab, there are two sets of chain anchors. Use the pair on the left side (without hooks) to belay from for the 2nd pitch.
P2: I'd give this pitch 2 stars. Follow a long, runout, ramp like feature up a slab. I found this section exceedingly hard to protect. Be comfortable with 15-20 foot runouts on slab. To compound the problem, part of the slab was still wet from the day previous and it made the easy climbing a little more heady. Infinite holds and features on the slab, though, easy 5.5-5.6 climbing. After finishing the ramp/slab, you'll go left to a wide crack in a more vertical standing wall and the climbing gets a tad spicier but is much easier to protect. You then climb up a steep corner on your left with a small bulge at the top. This is the crux of the route. There are plenty of options for pro, but the corner requires a clear head. Probably 5.7, maybe 5.8, climbing as the holds are JUGS and all there, but you have to do a slightly awkward transfer from a layback into a wide slot to get your body into the top of the corner. More mental than anything. The anchors
First time out climbing at Erie. I was slightly disappointed, but I think I'd contribute some of my consternation to the route being slightly wet from the day before. I'll definitely be giving the area a few more chances! Jan 11, 2021
Reno, NV
Seattle, WA
P2 of Zig Zig is not runout- that is laughable- there are plenty of options for pro and it's entirely 5.5 or less except the extremely protectable last move or two to gain the Springboard ledge's chains, which are 5.7...
"P3 of Zig Zag" doesn't exist. Ronald's P3 description is actually it's own route, Springboard (heady 5.8, 3.5 stars; def do it!). Similarly, "P3" in the main route description also its own route, Constant Velocity (5.8), which has two versions; see topo on pg. 138 & route description on pg. 141. One version (i.e. that joins Springboard crack) requires more gear than the other (that joins Redemption, 5.9). Nov 18, 2022
Kenmore, WA
Huntington, VT
Granite falls
Seattle