All Locations > Washington > Northwest Region > San Juan, Fidal… > Mt Erie > (g) Main Wall > (d) The Headwall

Chimney Sweep

Name: Chimney Sweep
Rating: 3.0

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in (d) The Headwall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Chimney Sweep S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Freedom Fighter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rat-catcher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Ray Auld Memorial Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Touching the Sky S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	When the Cat's Away, the Mice Will Play S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Wild Dreams S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

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Type:	Sport, 95 ft (29 m)
GPS:	48.45209, -122.62756
FA:	Tyler Hill, 9/2/20
Page Views:	1,606 total · 24/month
Shared By:	Tyler Hill on Aug 25, 2020
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Climb left of the anchor and straight up staying left of the crack system for Ray Auld Memorial Route and right of Freedom Fighter. A lower crux around bolt 4 is intended to be climbed straight through the steepest section of rock but can be bypassed to the right. Beware a swing if opting for the right variation. Climb up to the striking chimney/spire feature.

There are several options to climb this feature, namely either the left side, straight up the middle via bear-hugging/stemming/laybacking (the FA beta), or jamming the flaky rock on the right inside the actual "chimney". The left side may be easier than 10+ but a fall would result in a scary swing around the arete.

In any case, after mantling the feature do a tricky move rightwards to a jug and the top of the route (tree off if you can help it).