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Routes in Main Wall East

Dances With Ticks T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dancin' with the Divine (aka the Dallas Kloke Memorial Route) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gotta Keep Dancin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lord of the Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 155 ft, 4 pitches
FA: R. McPhee, D. Kloke, 2004
Page Views: 1,186 total · 29/month
Shared By: Andrew Davidson on Jun 29, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened Details

Description

Gotta Keep Dancin is a fun 4 pitch route that goes up the far right side of the Main Wall. But the pitches are short and can easily be linked into two. The rock is good, but there is a chance of some random loose rock.

P1: 5.9 40' 5 Bolts Go up a dirt ramp left to the wall. Traverse left and up to clip the first bolt. A short overhang corner system leads to the anchors
P2: 5.8 35' 4 Bolts Continue up the same crack system to the anchors, shares a ledge with a fir tree.
P3: 5.7 50' 3 Bolts Step left onto the arete. Go up into the crack system which kind of feels like a low angle chimney higher up.
P4: 5.7 35' 4 Bolts Short slab climb leads to the anchors.

Descent: Either 2 single rope rappels or 1 double rope rappel.

Location

The right most route on Main Wall East. Route goes up the left side of Gruesome Gully, which divides the Main Wall From Pigeon Stool Wall.

Protection

Gear to 2"
Quickdraws
Slings/Runners
Bolted anchors w/ Rap Rings

Photos

Kyle Bodamer
Bellingham WA
  5.9-
Kyle Bodamer   Bellingham WA
  5.9-
This climb is mostly bolted, I only placed 2 pieces. A very small rack is all you'll need. Fun climb for the area with alot of variety to it. The start can be tricky to find, you have to walk up a gully just right of lord of dance about 15 feet to a belay platform with iron rods marking the platform. The first bolts can be tricky to spot Oct 7, 2018

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