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Routes in Main Wall

Cat from Outer Space S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cowboys Don't Cry S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack'n the Code T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dances With Ticks T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dancin' with the Divine (aka the Dallas Kloke Memorial Route) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Freedom Fighter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Frogs in Space T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gotta Keep Dancin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jeopardy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
LGK T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laus Deo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinhead T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raindown S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ray Auld Memorial Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ride'm Cowgirl S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Springboard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunshine on a Dark Day T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Touching the sky S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Undercover T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,071 total · 10/month
Shared By: jaredvg on Aug 28, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Access Issue: Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened Details

Description

This is a decent crack climb, which takes gear well. Climb up the steep right facing corner to a bulge and step right to a small platform at about 30 feet. Step back left and follow a nice lower angle finger crack up the face to its top. From here one can either step left to climb another short right facing corner, or climb directly up a low 5th class arête. Note that if one chooses to climb the arête, there is no protection for the last 30 feet or so. There is no bolted anchor at the top of the climb. It is easiest to belay from one of the trees on top of Snag Buttress. The lower portion on this route is prone to vegetation, so be ready to potentially garden some placements on the way up.

Location

This route is the farthest right on the snag buttress and begins in a right facing corner. To get there one can continue traversing the exposed ledges at the base of the snag buttress eastward, eventually making a fourth class hand traverse. Another option is to cross the grassy benches (eastward) below the belay ledges for the other snag buttress climbs. A trail on the other side of the benches picks up and can be followed uphill to the east portion of the main wall.

Protection

Gear to 1"
No fixed anchor, belay from trees

Photos

I'm not sure how long they have been there but as of January 2015, the arête now has 1 bolt and there is a 2-bolt anchor just short of the Snag Buttress ledge. Jan 18, 2015
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
 
This enjoyable corner and crack system seems to be overlooked by most. Its a fantastic way to start the Ray Auld Memorial Route, or access the high quality pitches of Touching the Sky and Freedom Fighter. Its a great single pitch in its own right. Not to be missed! Sep 30, 2016
Travis Gomez
Sedro Woolley, WA
 
Travis Gomez   Sedro Woolley, WA
 
I found a bomber #2 Ticonderoga pencil in a small crack near the anchor. Let me know if you want it back. May 3, 2018

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