Elevation: 7,500 ft
GPS: 46.51, 12.051 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 35,692 total · 289/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jul 29, 2009
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

Description

The Cinque Torri area of the Dolomites is a wonderful grouping of small towers uniquely situated between the impressive Croda da Lago mountains to the east and the grand south face of Tofana di Rozes to the west. The area offers a multitude of easy-to-access sport climbs as well as many classic multipitch traditional routes to the airy summits of the towers.
The biggest of these towers are the three summits of Torre Grande. At 2361 meters, the south summit of Torre Grande is the tallest. First climbed in 1927, the five-pitch route Via Miriam (V+ or 5.8+) is the classic route up the south face of the south summit.
Ascending the east face of the north summit of Torre Grande is a more modern (1959) six-pitch route called Via Finlandia, (VII- or 5.10+).
The classic line up Torre Grande's west summit is the fun and easy four-pitch route Via delle Guide (IV or 5.5). First climbed in 1930, this route is obvious and easily viewed from the Rifugio Scoiattoli at the top of the ski lift and is a short five minute walk from the rifugio.

Getting There

From the quaint mountain town of Cortina d' Ampezzo, the Cinque Torri group is only roughly a seven mile drive up the windy road of Falzarego Pass. You can either drive to the well-signed 5 Torri parking area and, for 7 Euros one-way (2009), take the 5 minute ride up the ski lift to the Rif. Scoiattoli and then hike five minutes to the Cinque Torri. For another 7 Euros you can ride the lift down but it's an easy 20 minute hike down a good trail if you'd rather save that 7 Euros for some wine with dinner.
Alternatively, and free in July (pay in August), you can turn off the Falzarego Pass road at the 112.2 km marker on the small, paved road up to the Rifugio Cinque Torri parking area and hike up for about 10 minutes to the climbing. This is a great way to access the route Via Miriam as you hike right under the south face of the south summit of Torre Grande.

Basecamp

Hotels abound in Cortina d'Ampezza and it's a short drive (~10 miles) up to the Falzarego Pass from Cortina. Renting a car for your trip is probably the best way to go allowing you early starts for the sure-to-be-crowded classics in the Falzarego Pass area. I suspect taxis and buses can be easily obtained but I don't know for sure.
The rifugios in the area, Rif. Scoiattoli, Rif. Cinque Torri, Rif. Dibona and others near the pass offer a lower cost option of nightly lodging and are super close to the climbing. It also appears you can camp along the road to the Rif. Cinque Torri and along Falzarego Pass but I can't say for sure.

Season

The area is pretty high in altitude and obviously a great ski destination in winter so late spring, summer and fall are best. The towers themselves are lower than the surrounding mountains and can be easily bailed off from so they are a good choice compared to other areas in the Falzarego Pass vicinity if weather looks iffy.

Beta

The English-translated version of the book “Classic Dolomite Climbs” by Anette Kohler and Norbert Memmel (ISBN 0-89886-693-6) published by The Mountaineers of Seattle, WA, covers the classic multipitch routes of the Cinque Torri. Finding and English version of a book covering the sport climbs of the area might be difficult but I haven't looked. Perhaps try Chessler Books online. Roberto Casanova has a guide in Italian, German and English with 10 different sport climbing areas near Cortina featured (including Cinque Torri) that you can purchase in downtown Cortina.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cinque Torri Group

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 17
Via delle Guide
Trad 4 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 7
North Face
Trad 6 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 8
Northwest Corner
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 6
Via Normale
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 6
Via Normale
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Fra Fra
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Rosamunda
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
South Face (Via Miriam)
Trad 5 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 5
Via Olga --Nordwest Verschneidun…
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 8
Diretta Dimai (Dimai Direct)
Trad 8 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 9
East Face "Via Finlandia"
Trad 6 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Franceschi
Trad, Sport 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Via delle Guide Torre Grande W Summit
 17
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 4 pitches
North Face Torre Seconda (… > Torre Lusy
 7
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 6 pitches
Northwest Corner Torre Seconda (… > Torre Barancio
 8
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Via Normale Torre Quarta Bassa
 6
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Via Normale Torre Inglese
 6
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Fra Fra Torre Grande W Summit
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Rosamunda Torre Grande W Summit
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
South Face (Via Miriam) Torre Grand S Summit
 29
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Via Olga --Nordwest Verschn… Torre Grande W Summit
 5
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Diretta Dimai (Dimai Direct) Torre Grand S Summit
 8
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 8 pitches
East Face "Via Finlandia" Torre Grande, N Summit
 9
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad 6 pitches
Franceschi Torre Grand S Summit
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport 5 pitches
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