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Routes in Torre Grand South Summit

Diretta Dimai (Dimai Direct) T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Fandango S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Franceschi T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nordica S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
South Face (Via Miriam) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 8 pitches, Grade II
FA: G. Dimai, C. Degasper, G. Ghedina, and A. Verzi 1933
Page Views: 919 total, 13/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Jan 1, 2012
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

Originally done with etriers as a mixed free and aid climb, but has evolved into a magnificent free climbing testpiece in the Cinque Torri. This route shares the first two pitches of Via Miriam. From the second belay stance of that route continue upwards for another 50 feet of easy (UIAA Grade III, 5.4-5.5) but exposed climbing to a double bolt anchor. The fourth pitch is extremely exposed and traverses left following several fixed pitons and a few bolts befor striking directly upwards on a slightly diagonaling line to the right following several more bolts; this pitch is difficult free climbing (UIAA IV+, V+, and finally VI; It may also be aided at A-0. This is probably hard 5.9 if done all free). The belay is another multi bolt anchor, and pitch five is another very exposed but ascending traverse to the left which follows a line of fixed gear (UIAA Grade V-, or 5.6/5.7). Pitch six is pretty much straight up, and again follows fixed protection of pitons and bolts. (UIAA Grade VI-, or 5.8+). Pitch seven is the crux and is a thin crack; again fixed protection (UIAA VI+, 5.10a/b or A-1). The final pitch is much easier and has several chickenheads or threads for protection (UIAA III). Although it would seem possible to link pitches with a longer rope, breaking this into several shorter ones certainly avoids issues of excessive rope drag due to the devious line sometimes followed.

Descent: Same as Via Miriam.

Location

Same start as the Via Miriam.

Protection

Mostly fixed protection, with many pitons and bolts. It would be prudent to bring a light rack of wired stoppers and some small to medium cams in addition to many quickdraws and a few longer slings for threads.
I thought this route was very high quality. Great rock. Great exposure. Well protected where you need it. 5.10b Jun 19, 2014
I'm not very clear as to who did the first truly "free" ascent of this climb; it was probably sometime in the 1970's however. I was climbing in light Marwa-soled kletter boots (same sole as Kronhofer Kletterschue), but my companion had clunky mountain boots and a great supply of etriers. I was able to eliminate a few aid moves simply by being able to friction on some sloped holds where the boots just didn't have purchase. Still, the first 2 pitches of Via Miriam were free climbed at 5.8 even then, in 1964. Feb 24, 2013