Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Torre Quarta Alta

Il Dau delle nevi S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Tinsemal S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Via Normale T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 280 ft, 4 pitches
FA: A. Dimai and A. Girardi, 1911
Page Views: 174 total, 4/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Sep 7, 2014
Admins: Tim Wolfe

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The first 2 pitches are identical with the Normal route on Torre Quarta Bassa. A rather wide step-across is needed to reach to wall across the notch from the ring anchor, and steep climbing on good holds follows. Move right initially, and then follow the line of a couple old pitons and cemented rings on up to an archaic cemented in twisted rod anchor. To this point, UIAA Gr. IV, and 5.5 YDS. The fourth land final lead climbs to a good piton at a difficult short corner, described in the Bernari guidebook as a "chimney," and it is for a move or two; UIAA Gr. IV+, YDS 5.6/5.7. stay towards the right skyline and top out to a spacious and grassy summit. Abseil the route to the notch (2 abseils), and a long abseil into the hole between the 2 towers puts one back on terra firma.

Location

The first 2 pitches are congruent with Torre Quarta Bassa, via Normale. The Quarta Alta route begins at the point where the 2 towers touch. A big cemented ring anchor on Torre Quarta bassa is the start.

Protection

Entirely fixed gear, including rappel/belay anchors. A light rack and a handful of quickdraws is useful.
The route has one slightly harder section near the start of p.2. It's well protected by a good piton. I rated the moves at 5.6/5.7, or UIAA Gr. IV+. The Bernardi guidebook shows this as a short "chimney," but it's more of a tight right facing corner. Sep 8, 2014