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Routes in Torre Barancio

North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Northwest Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: I. Dibona, P. Appolonio, and F. Stefani 1934
Page Views: 87 total · 1/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on May 29, 2011
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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The route begins almost the center of the North Face and climbs directly upwards for 30 meters to a small terrace (ledge). A short travese right to a crack which is followed upwards for another 10 meters and reaches a series of small ledges. Continue upwards another 60 meters to the summit.

This is an extremely enjoyable climb which is also an excellent introduction to Dolomite climbing!


To the right of Torre Lusy.

Double rope rappel(s) to get off the tower.


Fixed pitons for protection. Bring a light rack, runners and quickdraws.


The Mauro Bernardi guidebook rates this climb as UIAA Gr. IV+, which is also equivalent to 5.6. Sep 18, 2013
David Kozak
David Kozak  
This is a nice route and crowded. The first moves (crux) are relatively unprotected with sloping holds. It might be a bit un-nerving for a 5.6 leader. Do the route in three pitches (straight to the top--don't traverse off right to other summit) and make two single rope raps off the summit. Jul 15, 2013
Dan G0D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
Dan G0D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
"Dolomiten: Die schoensten routen" by Mauro Bernardi breaks up the route into 5 pitches. I believe we did it in 3 with double ropes and additonal long runners to alleviate rope drag. Jan 12, 2012
The Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel guidebook "Classic Dolomite Climbs" gives this as 4 pitches. A 60 meter rope allows linking pitches and the climb may accomplished in 2 long leads. Dec 15, 2011
My memory of this route is a bit vague, as I climbed this in 1963.
The Antonio Berti guidebook gave this route a rating of IV+ at the time, which translates to ~5.6. May 29, 2011