Type: Trad, 3 pitches
GPS: 46.5098, 12.0521
FA: unknown
Page Views: 217 total · 6/month
Shared By: Anunta Anunta on Aug 4, 2023
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath
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Description Suggest change

This is a brand new line of bolts following the left side of the arete, with some runout sections and thin moves.  Skip the 1st belay station since it's full of loose rock and aim for the second one (5.8+, 50m). Keep following the left side on 5.6 terrain, then once you're around the level at the top of Torre Lusy, join up with Via Ignazio Dibona for the final pitch instead of following the bolts around the left corner (you'll see fixed pins).  The anchor is located way back towards the south side. Do not use this anchor to rappel from or your rope will get stuck--there's another one behind it on the south face. 

Talking to the guides this was likely a practice route put in by the Italian Army a few years ago. Since it's new, be aware that there's a lot of loose rock. 

Location Suggest change

This is located on the North face of Torre del Barancio to the left of Via Ignazio Dibona.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts and nuts, small to medium cams.

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Photos

Bolt line starts on the right side of the gully along the left side of the formation. Sadly there won't be a dog sleeping on a backpack there to mark the start (it's also a scary place to put your pup with all the loose rock-not my dog, not recommended).
Bolt line starts on the right side of the gully…
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