Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Torre Barancio

North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Northwest Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 300 ft
FA: Ignazio Dibona, Pietro Apollonio, Dino Stefani. September 1934.
Page Views: 2,795 total, 27/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jul 29, 2009
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

While the name of the route implies you'll climb the corner, you really climb the face to the right of the corner with the occasional stem out to the left face.

Pitch 1 and 2 (55m): With a sixty meter rope, P1 and P2 can be combined easily. From the base of the corner, climb easy ground up to decent ledge and small roof above. Clip a piton and pull the awkward roof (crux) to clip another piton and a few bolts to the first belay (fixed gear). Continue up the fun and easy (but pretty polished) face clipping bolts and pitons along the way. The guidebook shows only a few pitons or bolts but the route has seen a retrobolting job and now has a fair number of bolts for lead protection and for belays. Belay from a fixed gear belay when you're nearly out of rope.

Pitch 3 (50m):
Continue up the face climbing enjoyable jugs and throwing out your left foot to stem every now and then. Reach a big ledge at the notch between the shorter summit of Torre Romana on the right (the western summit of Torre Barrancio) and the summit of Torre Barancio on the left where it would be possible to belay but I'd recommend you keep going. Step across the gap to the left and continue up steeper ground to the grassy summit of Torre Barancio where you'll find a huge ring cemented into the summit block for a belay. The last 20 feet of climbing to the summit is on lower quality rock and caution should be exercised.
The view of the Croda da Lago mountains and the Tofana di Rozes from the summit of Torre Barancio is grand.

Location

From the Rif. Scoiattoli, hike five minutes down to the Torre Grande. Take a low trail down and around (west) of the Torre Grande and the smaller formation west of Torre Grande. Head back east towards the Torre Barancio. The NW Corner will be obvious.

Protection

Eight single length runners and a couple of camalots from .75 to 2 to supplement the pitons and bolts would be adequate. You could find more pro opportunities if you wanted. Expect it to feel a bit runout if just clipping pitons and bolts. All belays are fixed gear belays.

Descent

Two 25m rappels down the tower's south side with a short hike around the tower's west side to the base of the route. Bring your hiking shoes. Do NOT thread your rope through the big ring on the summit because pulling it will likely result in a stuck rope. Instead, downclimb six feet to a good ledge (exposed) to find a big rappel ring on the ledge. Rappel 25m straight down to another big rap ring. Rappel 25m to the ground. The last rappel goes down a fun-looking sport route which may have a party on it so be careful. It would be possible to TR this route from the rap station if you're looking for more climbing.
Eriks Rozners
Binghamton, NY
  5.6 PG13
Eriks Rozners   Binghamton, NY
  5.6 PG13
Thanks, Rodger. I guess the comfortable and nice belay and the line of pins above it misled me to the middle of face. I am not complaining - it was great climbing, just at a higher grade than I expected :) Mar 3, 2017
Eriks-

You should have not strayed out onto the face; the route stays in the dihedral, where there is plenty of protection. Feb 10, 2017
Eriks Rozners
Binghamton, NY
  5.6 PG13
Eriks Rozners   Binghamton, NY
  5.6 PG13
This route is significantly harder than another classic, Via delle Guide despite the fact that Anette Kohler and Norbert Memmel guidebook gives both a UIAA grade IV, which would be 5.4. We climbed it after rain when some holds were still wet and it felt like at least a solid old school 5.6. The protection was tricky to find, perhaps because it was only my second climb in Dolomites, hence the PG13. If I go there again, I will take a set of larger tricams. I had a set of white to blue and was missing the larger sizes (blue-orange). There were some weird pockets where cams would not fit, but a large tricam seemed to be right on.

I had some route-finding issues (see a photo I posted). Above the crux roof, I was following pins and bolts as per description above "Continue up the fun and easy (but pretty polished) face clipping bolts and pitons along the way", which led me to the right, away from the corner and in the middle of the face. I quickly found myself in a 5.8ish terrain (not what I wanted given the wet pockets) though it was well protected by pins and bolts. I am not sure where the actual 5.6 line was, as the terrain on the left did not look much easier. Either way, I was able to get back on route when I reached a decent ledge. Overall, it was an excellent climb that given all the circumstances was testing and educational for us. Aug 30, 2016
The recently available guidebook authored by Mauro Bernardi, more correctly lists this as the NW Dihedral route on Torre Romana, with an UIAA Grade of IV+ (roughly equivalent with YDS 5.6). Sep 10, 2013
This route is incorrectly attributed to Dibona, et. al., and was actually the work of the Scoiattoli di Cortina in 1944. (Scoiattoli = squirrels, the name of the Cortina Guides). My information is from a copy of the CAI guidebook by Berti. In that work, it's also listed under Torre Romana, the tower lying west from Torre Barancio. Nov 22, 2011