All Locations > International > Europe > Italy > Dolomites > Cinque Torri Group > Torre Seconda (Se… > Torre Barancio
Avg: 3 from 9 votes
Routes in Torre Barancio
|North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Northwest Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft|
|FA:||Ignazio Dibona, Pietro Apollonio, Dino Stefani. September 1934.|
|Page Views:||2,795 total, 27/month|
|Shared By:||Jason Halladay on Jul 29, 2009|
|Admins:||Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath|
DescriptionWhile the name of the route implies you'll climb the corner, you really climb the face to the right of the corner with the occasional stem out to the left face.
Pitch 1 and 2 (55m): With a sixty meter rope, P1 and P2 can be combined easily. From the base of the corner, climb easy ground up to decent ledge and small roof above. Clip a piton and pull the awkward roof (crux) to clip another piton and a few bolts to the first belay (fixed gear). Continue up the fun and easy (but pretty polished) face clipping bolts and pitons along the way. The guidebook shows only a few pitons or bolts but the route has seen a retrobolting job and now has a fair number of bolts for lead protection and for belays. Belay from a fixed gear belay when you're nearly out of rope.
Pitch 3 (50m):
Continue up the face climbing enjoyable jugs and throwing out your left foot to stem every now and then. Reach a big ledge at the notch between the shorter summit of Torre Romana on the right (the western summit of Torre Barrancio) and the summit of Torre Barancio on the left where it would be possible to belay but I'd recommend you keep going. Step across the gap to the left and continue up steeper ground to the grassy summit of Torre Barancio where you'll find a huge ring cemented into the summit block for a belay. The last 20 feet of climbing to the summit is on lower quality rock and caution should be exercised.
The view of the Croda da Lago mountains and the Tofana di Rozes from the summit of Torre Barancio is grand.