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Via Olga --Nordwest Verschneidung ( N.W. Dihedral)
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | E. Lacedelli & R. Zardini |
Page Views: | 1,712 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | Rodger Raubach on Mar 8, 2017 · Updates |
Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
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Description
The route is pretty obvious; it starts at the base of a very steep left facing open book. Climb it. The first lead is very technically difficult and continuous; solid 5.7+/5.8 climbing. Belay at a fixed double piton anchor. Continue up difficult crack climbing and stemming, 5.8+/5.9, to a notch . The climbing then eases for a pitch and intersects Via delle Guide a pitch below the summit. Overall, a steep and continuous route.
Descent: On the summit, locate a rappel anchor on the northern end. A 20m rappel brings you to a ledge. Traverse left for about 5 m to locate a second rappel anchor. Another 20m rappel brings you to the top of a gully. Start descending the gully climber's right. After 10m, you can either scramble down a "tunnel" with fixed iron spikes, or you can do a final rappel from fixed gear.
Descent: On the summit, locate a rappel anchor on the northern end. A 20m rappel brings you to a ledge. Traverse left for about 5 m to locate a second rappel anchor. Another 20m rappel brings you to the top of a gully. Start descending the gully climber's right. After 10m, you can either scramble down a "tunnel" with fixed iron spikes, or you can do a final rappel from fixed gear.
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