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North Face

Name: North Face
Rating: 3.2

5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British

Routes in Torre Lusy

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North Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

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Type:	Trad, 300 ft, 6 pitches
FA:	M. Lusy and Z. Pompanin 1914.
Page Views:	1,620 total · 16/month
Shared By:	Rodger Raubach on May 29, 2011
Admins:	Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

The route begins on the North side of the tower, (towards the Tofana). It follows the line of least resistance and finishes towards the left side of the face on the arete leading to the summit. This is a very old route, and is a favorite of the local guides for an introduction to the area. It's a fun route; steep but easy, with great holds on marvelous rock.

The very old Club Alpino Italiano guidebook by Antonio Berti rated this as a Grade IV, or roughly a 5.4/5.5 climb.

Location

This route begins near the center of the tower, which lies to the left of Torre del Barancio. The descent is by rappel down the South face. Two ropes (50 meters) are required for the rappels.

Protection

Fixed protection; old pitons and drilled-in anchors. Bring a light rack of a few wired stoppers and small to medium Camalots. Some longer slings, and lots of quickdraws are necessary.