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Routes in Torre Lusy

North Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 6 pitches
FA: M. Lusy and Z. Pompanin 1914.
Page Views: 1,141 total · 14/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on May 29, 2011
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

The route begins on the North side of the tower, (towards the Tofana). It follows the line of least resistance and finishes towards the left side of the face on the arete leading to the summit. This is a very old route, and is a favorite of the local guides for an introduction to the area. It's a fun route; steep but easy, with great holds on marvelous rock.

The very old Club Alpino Italiano guidebook by Antonio Berti rated this as a Grade IV, or roughly a 5.4/5.5 climb.

Location

This route begins near the center of the tower, which lies to the left of Torre del Barancio. The descent is by rappel down the South face. Two ropes (50 meters) are required for the rappels.

Protection

Fixed protection; old pitons and drilled-in anchors. Bring a light rack of a few wired stoppers and small to medium Camalots. Some longer slings, and lots of quickdraws are necessary.
Pat Morris  
 
I give it 4 stars since it really is a classic 5.5, also with an easy ~15-20 min approach with photos from the parking near the refugio, and good bolted protection. No need for stoppers or cams unless you want the practice, just a few slings and a dozen quick draws. There is some 5.2-ish runout on the last pitch. Early start is recommended, it can get busy. We were on the 1st pitch by 10am in late August, fun to watch the crowds gather like ants from above. Sep 11, 2017
Did this route again today: 50 years TO THE DAY after my first ascent. The first 10 meters are what Mauro Bernardi has called "abgespeckt" or greasy like bacon, due to the enormous amount of traffic seen by this climb. Sep 8, 2013
Even though the route tends to wander around, the primary reason for many short leads is that this is a favorite with guides taking beginners up a "real climb." The famous "guides belay" allows beginners to fall "up." Jan 13, 2012
Dan G0D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.5
Dan G0D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.5
A fun route and good intro to Dolomite climbing...good training to spot camouflaged, ring bolts every 40 ft :) This route switchbacks all over the North face. Even with double ropes and judicious use of gear/long runners, we broke it up into ~4 pitches to avoid drag. The Dolomiten classics guide by Mauro Bernardi breaks this up into 6 short pitches. Jan 12, 2012
My description includes linking pitches by using a 60 meter rope. In "the old days" it was a 3-4 pitch climb! Dec 15, 2011
Sorry for the pretty sparse details, but it's been 47 years since I did this climb. It is a real fun route. May 29, 2011