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Routes in Torre Grand South Summit

Diretta Dimai (Dimai Direct) T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Fandango S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Franceschi T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nordica S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
South Face (Via Miriam) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 583 total · 8/month
Shared By: Dan G0D5H411 on Jan 11, 2012
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

An obvious line that tackles the Southwest face of Torre Grande. The first pitch is worth doing by itself if you do not have the time to summit.

P1(5.10c): Follow the right-leaning crack past two bulges (crux) to a belay in the corner of a large, right-facing dihedral. Bolts, 80 ft.

P2(5.9+): Work up the dihedral to a ledge on the left. 90ft.

P3(5.7) Continue on easier ground to a large ledge. 160 ft.

P4(4th) Either traverse off left for the Torre Grande descent or traverse right to join the top pitches of Miriam.

P5(5.5) Follow the last pitch of Miriam, aiming for the line of least resistance to the summit. 60 ft.

Location

Look for the obvious, right-diagonaling crack that leads into a long, right-facing dihedral on the Southwest face. Top-out and descend as for Miriam.

Protection

P1 can be climbed solely on bolts. If summiting, bring a standard, supplemental rack for the Dolemites: single set of cams and nuts with additional long runners.

Photos

First pitch is good, and can be easily rapped if you don't want to finish the whole route. First roof is cruxy, but the second roof is even harder if you can't figure out the feet. Although it's a harder grade, the first pitch is well bolted.

Either it was incredibly easy to get off route after the first pitch, or the climb was sparsely protected (and felt off route). After finishing and looking at the guide, we decided that we were on route, although it was quite dirty and did not seem like an intuitive climb.


Keep in mind that the rappel anchor at the top requires two 60m ropes. The anchor overlooks the gondola side of the rock. Jul 21, 2013

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