All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Sheep Pass Area > Cap Rock Area > Cap Rock

Cap Rock - North Face Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Cap Rock - North Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Black Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
	Bush Eviction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bush League T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Cool as a Cucumber T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Dicey, But Not Icy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Event Horizon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	False Lieback T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	False Prophet T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Icy, But Not Too Dicey T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Nutcracker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Retirement T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
	Space Odyssey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Thin Ice TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Vanilla Ice TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Elevation:	4,298 ft	1,310 m
GPS:	33.98991, -116.16346 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	29,522 total · 142/month
Shared By:	C Miller on Jan 26, 2009
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This is the often shady portion of Cap Rock that is visible from the main road as you approach from the north (Hidden Valley Campground) or the east (Ryan Campground).

This face is a good choice on warm days due to its northerly orientation. This wall is home to a number of easier cracks as well as some spicy face routes. Note that this face is quite popular with guide services - fortunately it's easy to spot this from the paved road.

Getting There

Park in a pullout on the main park road about 100 yards east of the Keys View Road intersection and walk about 150 yards to the base of the wall. Alternately, you can park in the large parking lot off of Keys View Road and walk under the south and southeast faces to reach this wall.

14 Total Climbs

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Location:	Cap Rock - North Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Cap Rock - North Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 94 ● Nutcracker Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 135 ● False Lieback Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 8 ● Bush Eviction Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R 26 ● False Prophet Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 23 ● Space Odyssey Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R 42 ● Event Horizon Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X 4 ● Black Ice Trad