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Routes in Cap Rock - North Face

Anniversary Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ayatollah, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Eviction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circus T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Circus, Circus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Event Horizon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
False Lieback T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
False Prophet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Horror-zontal Terror-verse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Icy, But Not Too Dicey T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Lil Squirt S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nutcracker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Retirement T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Space Odyssey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Thin Ice TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Rob Stahl, Dave Stahl, John Wolfe & Mona Wolfe, March 1971
Page Views: 2,526 total, 20/month
Shared By: Blitzo on May 19, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climbs a crack to a chimney about 20' right of "Event Horizon".

Protection

Standard rack.
Jonathan Newman
  5.5 PG13
Jonathan Newman  
  5.5 PG13
Don't do what I did and lead this climb as your second trad lead. It is definitely harder than 5.2, and once you hit the ledge about halfway through there are no more gear placements unless you have something really big ~6". Apr 9, 2017
Bob Hutchinson
  5.9+ R
Bob Hutchinson  
  5.9+ R
It is unfortunate that neither Vogel or Miramontes mention that the route rating is based on tunneling through to the back of the upper offwidth. Don't be a fool like I was, get seduced by the easy number, and attempt to solo this route via the offwidth as you may have a NDE (near death experience) like myself. Once committed to the offwidth it would be difficult to back off and finishing it is likely at least 5.9+ or harder. Mar 24, 2017
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.6 PG13
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.6 PG13
I didn't go in the chimney, I climbed the righthand rib, with small cam in a horizontal crack on the right for protection. This way I felt had a 5.8 move.

It's a good climb. Nov 15, 2014
verticalbound
  5.2
verticalbound  
  5.2
Lol consensus is spot on, took my girlfriend on all the begginer routes and trashcan so I got a solid feel for lower grades, soloed this behind someone cleaning it and we both agree 5.3 is solid. Apr 2, 2013
Mary Moser
Joshua Tree, CA
5.5 PG13
Mary Moser   Joshua Tree, CA
5.5 PG13
The first half of the climb was a really nice crack and the traverse was fun too. However, this climb is definitely harder than 5.2 and the chimney section above may be scary for a beginner due to the lack of pro. My friend Shannon did an excellent job keeping her head about her as she ran out the chimney. She did use the equivalent of a #5 Camalot at the start of the chimney, but above that there was no more pro. May 22, 2011
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
  5.7
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
  5.7
A C4 #6 can be slid up the wide crack at the top for a ways (but the rock walls of the crack are a bit grungy). I thought the crux was the short section just before gaining the traverse crack to the ledge below the wide crack. The wide crack was tricky and more of a mind game, but the holds were there for the most part. The lower section is easy and fun, great for a novice leader to climb, place pro, and downclimb if they have a more experienced partner to climb up it afterward and evaluate their gear and finish out the climb. Apr 6, 2011
Rodger Raubach  
  5.4
Excellent beginner climb with my 10 year old son; varied in nature and not too hard. Short but fun. By the way, I also agree with Doug99 about the grade--a bit stiffer than a 5.2 on the lower portion of the route. Maybe not 5.5, but at least 5.4. Mar 12, 2011
Doug99
  5.5
Doug99  
  5.5
No way this is 5.2. 5.5 easily.

A variation is the "Birthing Canal". Go to the back of the cave at the top chimney and climb straight up. Don't try this if you aren't skinny. Dec 9, 2010