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Routes in Cap Rock - North Face

Anniversary Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ayatollah, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Eviction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circus T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Circus, Circus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Event Horizon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
False Lieback T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
False Prophet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Horror-zontal Terror-verse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Icy, But Not Too Dicey T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Lil Squirt S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nutcracker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Retirement T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Space Odyssey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Thin Ice TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Brian Prentice, October 1985
Page Views: 666 total, 6/month
Shared By: Craig Kain on Jan 6, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Very short 1 bolt climb, approx 20 feet right of False Prophet (uses same start).

Protection

1 bolt (3/8")

Bolt upgraded on 11/2013

Photos

Bob Gaines
  5.10a R
Bob Gaines  
  5.10a R
I agree. It's a shame this beautiful patina slab suffers the lasting scars from a petty little bolt war. When the bolts were chopped the first time my friend went back and added the retro bolts again, and they got chopped a second time. Dec 26, 2015
Gunkswest   CA
Unfortunately, as of 10-2015, there are now a total of four (4) chopped bolts on this route: two (2) before you move out left on the first thin section and two (2) up near the top above the one existing bolt.

This is a great little route and as Mr. Gaines mentioned, it's a shame folks decided to chop the bolts when the FA party agreed to upgrade the protection and make it a safer route for everyone... Oct 25, 2015
Bob Gaines
  5.10a R
Bob Gaines  
  5.10a R
With my permission, a friend added two protection bolts. These were subsequently chopped by an anonymous individual. I always thought the rule was: it is OK to add protection bolts to a route as long as you got permission from the first ascent party?

A nice little slab climb, but as it stands now, an andrenaline filled, R or X rated lead: if you fall on the 5.9 move getting to the bolt you'll get hurt bad!

Jan 6, 2009