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> Joshua Tree NP
> Central Joshua…
> Sheep Pass Area
> Cap Rock Area
> Cap Rock
> Cap Rock - N Face
Icy, But Not Too Dicey
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British PG13
Avg: 1 from 4
votes
Routes in Cap Rock - North Face
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Black Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Bush Eviction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bush League T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Cool as a Cucumber T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Dicey, But Not Icy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Event Horizon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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False Lieback T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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False Prophet T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Icy, But Not Too Dicey T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Nutcracker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Retirement T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Space Odyssey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Thin Ice TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Vanilla Ice TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 33.98991, -116.16346 |
| FA: | Unknown, likely 1970s |
| Page Views: | 1,236 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Gunkswest on Oct 25, 2015 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start in the same spot as Black Ice and Thin Ice, on top of a 20-foot high bolder than leans against the main cliff. Step up onto a ledge about three feet off the large boulder (as for Black Ice and Thin Ice). Climb up and right along an easy, left-facing flake to its top. Make some unprotected friction moves above the flake to reach the summit.
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