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> Joshua Tree NP
> Central Joshua…
> Sheep Pass Area
> Cap Rock Area
> Cap Rock
> Cap Rock - N Face
Bush Eviction
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.4 from 8
votes
Early Access
Routes in Cap Rock - North Face
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Black Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Bush Eviction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bush League T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Cool as a Cucumber T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Dicey, But Not Icy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Event Horizon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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False Lieback T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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False Prophet T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Icy, But Not Too Dicey T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Nutcracker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Retirement T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Space Odyssey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Thin Ice TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Vanilla Ice TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 33.98991, -116.16346 |
| FA: | Tom Michael & Michael Harrington, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 1,696 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | OlgaMP on Nov 12, 2013 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Left of False Layback, start up a crack system immediately left of the dihedral. A combination of side pulls or fist jams can be used on this route. Once you reach a horizontal crack, use balance move to stand on it, then go up the large flake. Once the large flake starts getting thicker, make your way right again for more fist jams. Continue until you reach a small roof, traverse left and back to the rock face and go up a few feet. Large ledge on top. Optional variation (5.10c) if you start on your left side, directly underneath the large flake.
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