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Routes in Cap Rock - North Face

Anniversary Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ayatollah, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Eviction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circus T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Circus, Circus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Event Horizon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
False Lieback T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
False Prophet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Horror-zontal Terror-verse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Icy, But Not Too Dicey T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Lil Squirt S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nutcracker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Retirement T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Space Odyssey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Thin Ice TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tom Michael & Michael Harrington, 1986
Page Views: 492 total, 10/month
Shared By: OlgaMP on Nov 12, 2013
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Left of False Layback, start up a crack system immediately left of the dihedral. A combination of side pulls or fist jams can be used on this route. Once you reach a horizontal crack, use balance move to stand on it, then go up the large flake. Once the large flake starts getting thicker, make your way right again for more fist jams. Continue until you reach a small roof, traverse left and back to the rock face and go up a few feet. Large ledge on top. Optional variation (5.10c) if you start on your left side, directly underneath the large flake.

Protection

Standard/Large rack. You will need cams between 2" to 4" and 3's and 4's to set up anchor and bring your second up.

Photos

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Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
standard rack of doubles plus one optional #4. no need for many big cams. big cams not mandatory for gear anchor either, plenty of other sizes avail May 26, 2015