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Routes in Cap Rock - North Face

Anniversary Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ayatollah, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Eviction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circus T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Circus, Circus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Event Horizon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
False Lieback T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
False Prophet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Horror-zontal Terror-verse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Icy, But Not Too Dicey T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Lil Squirt S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nutcracker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Retirement T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Space Odyssey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Thin Ice TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Dan Ahlborn, Kevin Powell, 1-1976.
Page Views: 775 total, 6/month
Shared By: Blitzo on May 30, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb the first crack of "Nutcracker", then up the face past a bolt.

Protection

To 2", bolt.

Photos

Doug99
  5.9
Doug99  
  5.9
Fun route and a nice face climb. I think it's more like 5.9 though. The crux is a mantle move to a crack about 10 feet above the roof, which can easily be bypassed by going left to the chimney and then traversing back out. Easy face climb afterwards.

Taking the crack to the right at the start is a tougher variation. Probably 5.10c to get over the headwall. Traverse left at the second overhang to get back on route.

The route is often used by climbing schools in combination with nutcracker and Event Horizon, so it will likely be taken on weekends. Dec 9, 2010