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Routes in Cap Rock - North Face

Anniversary Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ayatollah, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Eviction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circus T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Circus, Circus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Event Horizon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
False Lieback T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
False Prophet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Horror-zontal Terror-verse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Icy, But Not Too Dicey T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Lil Squirt S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nutcracker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Retirement T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Space Odyssey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Thin Ice TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dan Ahlborn, January 1976
Page Views: 1,240 total, 10/month
Shared By: Blitzo on May 19, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climbs the left edge of the Northeast Face, past horizontals and face past a bolt.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Mary Moser
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10b R
Mary Moser   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10b R
We set up a TR on this route and it was a lot of fun. There was only a few harder moves at the top, but we used the arete features. May 22, 2011
Doug99
 
Doug99  
 
Crux is at the top. It's 5.9 otherwise. Easy to TR, and with a little extension you avoid the crux. In fact, it's not recommended to TR it without extension as you could swing off to the left and get injured. Dec 9, 2010
JOHN HYDE
twentynine palms ca
JOHN HYDE   twentynine palms ca
starting on the left side is a lot of fun, bring some webbing if your going to top rope (lots of drag) Sep 23, 2009
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
I thought it was solid 10.b-, and nowhere near 10.a+. I top roped it too.



(yeah, I'm an ass, but slicing stuff that thin is kinda silly don't cha' think?)

while I'm at it edit: Blitzo, WTF is a "standard rack" pertaining to this climb? Do I need doubles to 4"? That is a standard rack..... Fix it up chowder head. Your submission needs some work. Dec 3, 2007
Pat W  
I didn't lead this, but it seemed a bit easier than the 10b's nearby. Using a sidepull crimp on the left side of the arete through the crux may have helped. Maybe 5.10a + R-pucker factor means 5.10b? Nice route nonetheless, even better with a hard 10 start variation around to the left. Dec 3, 2007
C Miller
CA
  5.10b R
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b R
Good climbing on this, but the top portion is runout and has a lonely feel to it when on the lead.

Here's a good article about the term "event horizon" - astronomical.org/astbook/bl…. May 23, 2007