Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Cap Rock - North Face

California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Sheep Pass Area > Cap Rock Area > Cap Rock
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

This is the often shady portion of Cap Rock that is visible from the main road as you approach from the north (Hidden Valley Campground) or the east (Ryan Campground).

This face is a good choice on warm days due to its northerly orientation. This wall is home to a number of easier cracks as well as some spicy face routes. Note that this face is quite popular with guide services - fortunately it's easy to spot this from the paved road.

Getting There

Park in a pullout on the main park road about 100 yards east of the Keys View Road intersection and walk about 150 yards to the base of the wall. Alternately, you can park in the large parking lot off of Keys View Road and walk under the south and southeast faces to reach this wall.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 40
● Event Horizon
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 12
● Retirement
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 86
● Nutcracker
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 22
● Space Odyssey
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 2
● Bush League
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
● Bush Eviction
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 120
● False Lieback
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 25
● False Prophet
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
 2
● Black Ice
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
● Thin Ice
TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 3
● Icy, But Not Too Dicey
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 3
● Dicey, But Not Icy
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 2
● Cool as a Cucumber
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Event Horizon
 40
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad
● Retirement
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
● Nutcracker
 86
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
● Space Odyssey
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
● Bush League
 2
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
● Bush Eviction
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● False Lieback
 120
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
● False Prophet
 25
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad
● Black Ice
 2
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X Trad
● Thin Ice
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
● Icy, But Not Too Dicey
 3
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad, TR
● Dicey, But Not Icy
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad
● Cool as a Cucumber
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Me (1992), just below the bolt. Pretty thin and steep, but great rock quality.
[Hide Photo] Me (1992), just below the bolt. Pretty thin and steep, but great rock quality.
Routes on the north aspect of Cap Rock to include Nutcracker (blue), False Lieback (purple) and Black Ice (white).
[Hide Photo] Routes on the north aspect of Cap Rock to include Nutcracker (blue), False Lieback (purple) and Black Ice (white).
Cap Rock-from the Northeast.<br> Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] Cap Rock-from the Northeast. Photo by Blitzo.