Elevation: 6,950 ft
GPS: 40.005, -105.407 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 23,893 total · 151/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Sep 17, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details
Access Issue: Poison Ivy Alert Details

Description

Boulder Slips is an obscure crag just west of the trail to Boulder Falls. It is right next to the road and has very easy access, but, until recently, I've never seen anyone climbing here. The first route on the crag was Boulder Slips, climbed by Pat Ament and Larry Dalke in 1964.

There are seven routes documented in Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guidebook, mostly old trad routes established in the 80s. None of these was popular, due to sections of poor pro and lack of anchors.

In the fall of 2006, 10 new moderate sport and mixed routes were established, all with good protection and bolt anchors. In the summer of 2007, four more sport and mixed routes were added by Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand. Boulder Slips is now a worthwhile destination for a fun day of climbing.

L->R:

On the left side of the crag:

A1. Edges and Ledges, 8-, 1p, 80', bolts. Steep face.
A2. Brand New Bosch, 9-, 1p, 85', bolts. Corner to overlap.
A3. Party Time!, 9, 1p, 100', bolts & gear. Corner, arete, finger crack, hand/fist crack.
A4. Minutia, 8, 1p, 100', gear. Hand crack.
A5. Minutia Arete, 9+, 1p, 100', TR.
A6. Pumpkin Corner, 9-, 1p, 80', gear.
B. La Lune, 13-, 1p, 45', bolts & gear. Overhanging thin crack.
C. Haiku, 14-, 1p, 40', bolts.
D. Sunlight Arete, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
E. Useless One, 10, 1p, 50', gear.

In the center of the crag:

F. Colorado Senior Open, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
G. Family Guy, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
H. Same As It Ever Was, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
I. Giggity Giggity, 10, 1p, 85', bolts & gear.
J. Quagmire, 9+ R, 1p, gear.
K. The Throttle, 11 R, 1p, 95', gear or TR.

On the right side of the crag:

L1. The Threshold, 11-, 1p, 100', gear.
L2. Threshold Variation, 9+ R, 1p, 85', gear or TR.
M1. My Way, 10-, 1p, 80', bolts & gear. Arete, cracks, face.
M2. Boulder Slips, 9 R, 1p, 80', gear or TR. Corner, roof, slab.
N. Where's Bob?, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts & gear. Face to overhang.
O. The Ride, 10-, 1p, 70', bolts & gear. Face and cracks.

On the left side of the crag, at the top of a path, are seven routes: Edges and Ledges, a fun 5.8 sport route up a steep face; Brand New Bosch, a 5.9 sport route up a corner; Party Time!, a 5.9 corner, arete, and cracks; Minutia, a fabulous 5.8 hand crack; Minutia Arete, an arete that can be top-roped. Pumpkin Corner is the big corner right of Minutia Arete, and Sunlight Arete, is a striking arete on the upper tier.

Older routes in this area include La Lune, an overhanging 12d/13a sport route on a striped wall, and Useless One, which climbs thin cracks in a vertical wall about 60' right of La Lune.

Quagmire and The Throttle climb up the poorly-protected face in the center of the crag.

There are six routes on the right side of the crag: The Threshold climbs discontinuous cracks just left of My Way. Threshold Variation avoids the hard 5.11 section of The Threshold. My Way climbs a striking arete. Boulder Slips climbs the big right-facing corner just right of My Way. Where's Bob? climbs the face and overhang 25' right of Boulder Slips. The Ride climbs face and cracks 30' right of Where's Bob?.

Getting There

Go to Boulder Falls 7.5 miles up Boulder Canyon. There is a gravel pullout on the right just past the trail to the falls. Park just beyond the RTD bus stop which is at the beginning of the pullout, or a little farther up the road.

The routes on the left side of the crag are accessed by a path heading up the hill. Follow the path up about 100' above the road to the base of a broken slab (5 minutes). This path is mostly steep loose dirt and is littered with loose rocks -- be careful. In poison-ivy season (May through October), it is covered with the stuff.

The routes on the right side side of the crag are accessed by walking up to a wooded shoulder just above the road (about a minute).

See the
Boulder Slips Route Overview 1. Edges and Ledges, 8, 8 bolts 2. Brand New Bosch, 9, 6 bolts 3. Party Time!, 9, 5 bolts & gear to 3.5" 4. Minutia, 8, gear to 3" 5. Minutia Arete, 9+, TR 6. Pumpkin Corner, 9, gear to 2" 7. La Lune, 12d, 5 bolts 8. Sunlight Arete, 10b, 5 bolts 9. The Throttle, 11 R, TR 10. Threshold Variation, 9+ R, TR 11. My Way, 9, 4 bolts & gear to 2" 12. Boulder Slips, 9 R, gear to 2" 13. Where's Bob?, 10, 5 bolts & 2 green Camalots 14. The Ride, 10b, 5 bolts & gear to 2" for details.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Boulder Slips

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 79
Minutia
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 121
Edges and Ledges
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 15
Boulder Slips
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
My Way
Trad, Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Colorado Senior Open
Trad, Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 21
Sunlight Arete
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Minutia
 79
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Edges and Ledges
 121
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Boulder Slips
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, TR
My Way
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Colorado Senior Open
 10
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Sunlight Arete
 21
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
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