Boulder Slips Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 6,950 ft | 2,118 m |
GPS: |
40.0046, -105.4065 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 41,362 total · 183/month | |
Shared By: | Ron Olsen on Sep 17, 2006 | |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
From November to early May, the poison ivy is dormant, but watch out for the plants with little light-green berries -- these are poison ivy bushes. Avoid them and you should be OK to climb on the left side of Boulder Slips at those times.
Description
Boulder Slips is an obscure crag just west of the trail to Boulder Falls. It is right next to the road and has very easy access, but, until recently, I've never seen anyone climbing here. The first route on the crag was Boulder Slips, climbed by Pat Ament and Larry Dalke in 1964.
There are seven routes documented in Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guidebook, mostly old trad routes established in the 80s. None of these was popular, due to sections of poor pro and lack of anchors.
In the fall of 2006, 10 new moderate sport and mixed routes were established, all with good protection and bolt anchors. In the summer of 2007, four more sport and mixed routes were added by Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand. Boulder Slips is now a worthwhile destination for a fun day of climbing.
L->R:
On the left side of the crag:
A1. Edges and Ledges, 8-, 1p, 80', bolts. Steep face.
A2. Brand New Bosch, 9-, 1p, 85', bolts. Corner to overlap.
A3. Party Time!, 9, 1p, 100', bolts & gear. Corner, arete, finger crack, hand/fist crack.
A4. Minutia, 8, 1p, 100', gear. Hand crack.
A5. Minutia Arete, 9+, 1p, 100', TR.
A6. Pumpkin Corner, 9-, 1p, 80', gear.
B. La Lune, 13-, 1p, 45', bolts & gear. Overhanging thin crack.
C. Haiku, 14-, 1p, 40', bolts.
D1. La Loon, 10-, 1p, 80', gear.
D2. Sunlight Arete, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
E. Useless One, 10, 1p, 50', gear.
F. BS One, 6, 1p, 70 or 125', gear.
G. ??, 8, 1p, 70 or 125', gear.
H. ??, 6, 1p, 70 or 125', gear.
I. ??, 8, 1p, 70 or 125', gear.
J. ??, 8, 1p, 70 or 125', gear.
K. ??, , 1p, 70 or 125', gear.
In the center of the crag:
L. Colorado Senior Open, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
M. Family Guy, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
N. Same As It Ever Was, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
O. Giggity Giggity, 10, 1p, 85', bolts & gear.
P. Quagmire, 9+ R, 1p, gear.
Q. The Throttle, 11 R, 1p, 95', gear or TR.
On the right side of the crag:
R1. The Threshold, 11-, 1p, 100', gear.
R2. Threshold Variation, 9+ R, 1p, 85', gear or TR.
S1. My Way, 10-, 1p, 80', bolts & gear. Arete, cracks, face.
S2. Boulder Slips, 9 R, 1p, 80', gear or TR. Corner, roof, slab.
T. Where's Bob?, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts & gear. Face to overhang.
U. The Ride, 10-, 1p, 70', bolts & gear. Face and cracks.
On the left side of the crag, at the top of a path, are seven routes: Edges and Ledges, a fun 5.8 sport route up a steep face; Brand New Bosch, a 5.9 sport route up a corner; Party Time!, a 5.9 corner, arete, and cracks; Minutia, a fabulous 5.8 hand crack; Minutia Arete, an arete that can be top-roped. Pumpkin Corner is the big corner right of Minutia Arete, and Sunlight Arete, is a striking arete on the upper tier.
Older routes in this area include La Lune, an overhanging 12d/13a sport route on a striped wall, and Useless One, which climbs thin cracks in a vertical wall about 60' right of La Lune.
Quagmire and The Throttle climb up the poorly-protected face in the center of the crag.
There are six routes on the right side of the crag: The Threshold climbs discontinuous cracks just left of My Way. Threshold Variation avoids the hard 5.11 section of The Threshold. My Way climbs a striking arete. Boulder Slips climbs the big right-facing corner just right of My Way. Where's Bob? climbs the face and overhang 25' right of Boulder Slips. The Ride climbs face and cracks 30' right of Where's Bob?.
Getting There
The routes on the left side of the crag are accessed by a path heading up the hill. Follow the path up about 100' above the road to the base of a broken slab (5 minutes). This path is mostly steep loose dirt and is littered with loose rocks -- be careful. In poison-ivy season (May through October), it is covered with the stuff.
The routes on the right side side of the crag are accessed by walking up to a wooded shoulder just above the road (about a minute).
See the for details.
Classic Climbing Routes at Boulder Slips
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