Boulder Slips Rock Climbing
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|Shared By:||Ron Olsen on Sep 17, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, firstname.lastname@example.org, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
From November to early May, the poison ivy is dormant, but watch out for the plants with little light-green berries -- these are poison ivy bushes. Avoid them and you should be OK to climb on the left side of Boulder Slips at those times.
Boulder Slips is an obscure crag just west of the trail to Boulder Falls. It is right next to the road and has very easy access, but, until recently, I've never seen anyone climbing here. The first route on the crag was Boulder Slips, climbed by Pat Ament and Larry Dalke in 1964.
There are seven routes documented in Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guidebook, mostly old trad routes established in the 80s. None of these was popular, due to sections of poor pro and lack of anchors.
In the fall of 2006, 10 new moderate sport and mixed routes were established, all with good protection and bolt anchors. In the summer of 2007, four more sport and mixed routes were added by Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand. Boulder Slips is now a worthwhile destination for a fun day of climbing.
On the left side of the crag:
A1. Edges and Ledges, 8-, 1p, 80', bolts. Steep face.
A2. Brand New Bosch, 9-, 1p, 85', bolts. Corner to overlap.
A3. Party Time!, 9, 1p, 100', bolts & gear. Corner, arete, finger crack, hand/fist crack.
A4. Minutia, 8, 1p, 100', gear. Hand crack.
A5. Minutia Arete, 9+, 1p, 100', TR.
A6. Pumpkin Corner, 9-, 1p, 80', gear.
B. La Lune, 13-, 1p, 45', bolts & gear. Overhanging thin crack.
C. Haiku, 14-, 1p, 40', bolts.
D. Sunlight Arete, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
E. Useless One, 10, 1p, 50', gear.
F. BS One, 6, 1p, 70 or 125', gear.
G. BS Two, 8, 1p, 70 or 125', gear.
H. BS Three, 6, 1p, 70 or 125', gear.
I. BS Four, 8, 1p, 70 or 125', gear.
J. BS Five, 8, 1p, 70 or 125', gear.
K. BS Six, , 1p, 70 or 125', gear.
In the center of the crag:
L. Colorado Senior Open, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
M. Family Guy, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
N. Same As It Ever Was, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
O. Giggity Giggity, 10, 1p, 85', bolts & gear.
P. Quagmire, 9+ R, 1p, gear.
Q. The Throttle, 11 R, 1p, 95', gear or TR.
On the right side of the crag:
R1. The Threshold, 11-, 1p, 100', gear.
R2. Threshold Variation, 9+ R, 1p, 85', gear or TR.
S1. My Way, 10-, 1p, 80', bolts & gear. Arete, cracks, face.
S2. Boulder Slips, 9 R, 1p, 80', gear or TR. Corner, roof, slab.
T. Where's Bob?, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts & gear. Face to overhang.
U. The Ride, 10-, 1p, 70', bolts & gear. Face and cracks.
On the left side of the crag, at the top of a path, are seven routes: Edges and Ledges, a fun 5.8 sport route up a steep face; Brand New Bosch, a 5.9 sport route up a corner; Party Time!, a 5.9 corner, arete, and cracks; Minutia, a fabulous 5.8 hand crack; Minutia Arete, an arete that can be top-roped. Pumpkin Corner is the big corner right of Minutia Arete, and Sunlight Arete, is a striking arete on the upper tier.
Older routes in this area include La Lune, an overhanging 12d/13a sport route on a striped wall, and Useless One, which climbs thin cracks in a vertical wall about 60' right of La Lune.
Quagmire and The Throttle climb up the poorly-protected face in the center of the crag.
There are six routes on the right side of the crag: The Threshold climbs discontinuous cracks just left of My Way. Threshold Variation avoids the hard 5.11 section of The Threshold. My Way climbs a striking arete. Boulder Slips climbs the big right-facing corner just right of My Way. Where's Bob? climbs the face and overhang 25' right of Boulder Slips. The Ride climbs face and cracks 30' right of Where's Bob?.
The routes on the left side of the crag are accessed by a path heading up the hill. Follow the path up about 100' above the road to the base of a broken slab (5 minutes). This path is mostly steep loose dirt and is littered with loose rocks -- be careful. In poison-ivy season (May through October), it is covered with the stuff.
The routes on the right side side of the crag are accessed by walking up to a wooded shoulder just above the road (about a minute).
See the Boulder Slips Route Overview 1. Edges and Ledges, 8, 8 bolts 2. Brand New Bosch, 9, 6 bolts 3. Party Time!, 9, 5 bolts & gear to 3.5" 4. Minutia, 8, gear to 3" 5. Minutia Arete, 9+, TR 6. Pumpkin Corner, 9, gear to 2" 7. La Lune, 12d, 5 bolts 8. Sunlight Arete, 10b, 5 bolts 9. The Throttle, 11 R, TR 10. Threshold Variation, 9+ R, TR 11. My Way, 9, 4 bolts & gear to 2" 12. Boulder Slips, 9 R, gear to 2" 13. Where's Bob?, 10, 5 bolts & 2 green Camalots 14. The Ride, 10b, 5 bolts & gear to 2" for details.
Classic Climbing Routes at Boulder Slips
Days w Precip