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Routes in Boulder Slips

Boulder Slips T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Brand New Bosch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Colorado Senior Open T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edges and Ledges S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Family Guy T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Giggity-Giggity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Haiku S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
La Lune S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Minutia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Minutia Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
My Way T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Party Time! T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pumpkin Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ride, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Same As It Ever Was T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunlight Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Threshold Variation T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Threshold, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Throttle, The T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Useless One T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where's Bob? T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Bob Horan
Page Views: 2,553 total, 20/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Jul 8, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

La Lune combines beauty, position, and pain to create a route that beckons and repels at the same time.

The striking black and tan overhang is slashed with numerous discontinuous cracks and seams, creating a gorgeous effect and a very unique style of climbing. With cars racing through the canyon, the river raging below, and the steep terrain above, the exposure is unavoidable as you clip the first bolt 100 feet above the canyon floor.

Trending slightly left along the most generous, and amazingly excuciating features, this route builds in difficulty and pain as you approach the top of the overhang. After pulling the lip continue up a dirty, unprotected 5.8 crack for 15 feet to the poorly placed anchors.

It's worth noting that the first ascentionist redpointed this route using preplaced traditional gear. So if anyone is looking for a hard, painful project that is still waiting for a lead while placing the gear- here it is!

If not for a some glue and the huge gobies on my fingers, this route would easily get four stars.

Location

This route is located on an overhanging, black and tan streaked wall above Minutia, which could be used to approach La Lune. It's also possible to scramble up and right of La Lune and make some very exposed 5.6 moves to gain the base of La Lune. There is a two bolt anchor just before these moves on a large ledge and roping up is highly recommended, as a fall would certainly result in death. Once at the base of La Lune, there are two vertically staggered bolts that can be used as a belay anchor.

Protection

This route is fully bolted, including an inconveniently placed two bolt anchor, which is about 5 feet to the right of the finishing crack.

Some medium-sized Camalots could be used to protect the easy, but dirty, crack climbing between the last bolt and the chains.

Photos

Pinklebear  
 
A Metolius No. 7 (BD No. 2 Camalot) was nice for the upper crack. I climbed level with the anchors to a no-hands at the top of the wall, downclimbed back to the cam, pulled it, and lowered off a biner that's been left on bolt 5. This saves your rope over the lip and the headache of getting out right to the anchor.

Cool climb! Painful while working the beta (maybe tape your pinkies) but then not so painful when you figure out the sequences. Airy but safe. Enjoy! Oct 14, 2012
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Was this actually lead only on pre-placed gear or was it lead placing the gear?

I ask because in the photo of Bob H with the caption stating the FFA, he clearly has a bit of gear on his harness, which is pressumably there to be placed higher on the route. Mar 14, 2009