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Routes in Boulder Slips

Boulder Slips T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Brand New Bosch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Colorado Senior Open T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edges and Ledges S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Family Guy T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Giggity-Giggity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Lune S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Minutia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Minutia Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
My Way T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Party Time! T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pumpkin Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ride, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Same As It Ever Was T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunlight Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Threshold Variation T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Threshold, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Throttle, The T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Useless One T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where's Bob? T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bruce Hildenbrand and Ron Olsen, 10/1/06
Page Views: 1,971 total, 15/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Oct 8, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

My Way climbs the arete left of the Boulder Slips route. Nice face and crack climbing in an airy position.

Start in the huge right-facing corner of Boulder Slips. After 15', move left to left-slanting slot. Clip a bolt and face climb past the slot to the top of a pillar. (You can also grovel up the slot, face up or face down, if you like that sort of thing). From the top of the pillar, move up and right on face holds to a stance just right of the arete. Place a 3/4" cam (green Camalot) in a crack around to the left and pull onto the arete.

Contine up cracks to a headwall. Step left and climb the face past two bolts. Move right and climb another crack. When it ends, move up a slab, clip a final bolt, and continue straight up to the bolt anchor just above.

Belay from here or lower 85' back down.

Location

On the right side of the crag, at the big right-facing corner of the Boulder Slips route.

Protection

Pro to 3" plus 4 bolts. Double set of finger-sized cams (yellow Alien to green Camalot) useful. 2-bolt anchor at the top. This anchor can also be used to toprope Boulder Slips and Threshold Variation.
Sooty  
Climbed this route today, and the two bolts in question have been removed. I was not surprised by the removal but was saddened to see the hanger-less, half bent bolts still in their holes with visibly damaged rock. Hopefully whoever removed them will go back to clean up their work. I'm no expert, but it sure looked like a hack job. FYI...my partner found good gear nearby, and the anchor bolts were thankfully left in place. May 14, 2017
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
P.S. Boulder Slips is NOT dangerous if you take extra yellow Aliens and 1.5-2" (or green Camalot) cams It's absuurd to say it, and maybe it is 'independent' of the original line of Boulder Slips and Jim did that, however....

Given that Boulder Slips can climb the left or right options up top via cracks on lead from the ground (and having done both), it is crystal clear that this route indeed added bolts to the reach-zone of Boulder Slips, and so they are retro-bolts, insofar as I am concerned. Sep 17, 2016
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Well,
I think Bruce kinda said it all with one post before this "debate" he lead the route on gear prior to the placement of the bolts. The route not only can be protected on gear, it was, by the FA party.
Bruce was clear with me that he didn't approve of the bolts and disclaimed them right here in writing.

So, why were people even having this discussion? When did bolting cracks after the FA (on gear) become OK? May 14, 2012
Dougald MacDonald
  5.10a/b
Dougald MacDonald  
  5.10a/b
Sandbag at 5.9., at least by BC standards. Good, engaging route. Apr 8, 2012
I climbed My Way this afternoon with Adam Massey.

We both enjoyed this fine addition. I have climbed Boulder Slips, which is dangerous, and this is clearly an independent line. I have not done Threshold, but that one also appears to me to take its own line left of My Way.

While Crusher and Andy have a practiced eye for this type of impact, in my view My Way is a well-protected mixed route and should remain as a popular choice for those of us too scared to send Boulder Slips or too weak to lead Threshold. Sep 17, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
 
Andy,

The lead bolts on My Way do not impact the Boulder Slips route. The climbing line on Boulder Slips is well to the right of the bolts on My Way.

People climbing Boulder Slips have the option of angling left to the anchor on My Way; that is the only impact. Jul 13, 2007
I did Threshold with Crusher a couple of nights ago and ended up following the bolts. Looked at the guidebook later and it seems from Boulder Climbs North (Rossiter) that Threshold finishes left of the upper prow and Boulder Slips (FA solo by Erikson) takes the cracks on the right. In this case My Way is independent BUT having the bolts there still changes the character of both of the previous routes by affecting the runouts required on each. In my opinion having a mental challenge on a route is a good thing, so adding bolts detracts from the older routes, infact it's just plain naughty. Jul 13, 2007
Hi Ron, thanks for your thoughtful response.

Well, from my perspective I'd say yeah, pull the bolts. And if you did I'd add a very big thank you for having the flexibility to be willing to remove your bolts. I would suggest leaving the anchor at the top, as a tree-saving measure (or maybe just laziness...) but that would be your call.

But from a climber-community perspective, perhaps we should try to solicit some opinion from any other folks who have done the routes in this area. Anyone else?

I think I need to go back and do one or two of the other routes nearby to get a better feel for exactly what goes where. Jul 13, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
 
Crusher,

it sounds as if the Ament and Rossiter descriptions of The Threshold are different in some critical respects. We based our choice of line on My Way using Rossiter's guidebook. We wanted to find an independent line between The Threshold and Boulder Slips, and thought we had found one. But your climb, and Ament's description, make it sound as if The Threshold can take a line similar to My Way in the upper part.

However, there is a climbable line left of My Way and right of The Throttle that matches Rossiter's description of The Threshold, staying left of the prow. That is what I climbed when I did Threshold Variation.

I think the problem is that it is possible to climb several lines from the stance at the base of the prow, and later move from one line to another without difficulty. It's even possible to get over to Boulder Slips and climb the upper part of that line from the start of the prow.

It was not our intention to impact The Threshold when we installed the bolts on My Way. But certainly, the way you climbed The Threshold merged with My Way in the upper section.

I can remove the bolts and anchor we installed for My Way, and erase the route. However, I think that will doom The Threshold and Boulder Slips to the obscurity they have enjoyed for many years, with a tedious walkoff (or double-rope rappel from trees) instead of the easy descent from the bolt anchor. Let me know what you think I should do. Jul 13, 2007
Ron, I don't recall much from when I first did Threshold 20 years ago, but I'm sure I would have headed pretty much straight up after the crux. Did Threshold yesterday. Anything else but straight up would be pretty contrived. I added Threshold to the database. Perhaps others could add some opinions. The route has never been popular, but that's a shame, as it is a great pitch. The new rap anchor on top might help its popularity.

There is a tad more detail about Threshold in Ament's High Over Boulder:

"After the hand crack, work up the prow and finish up and left with a thin crack."

Ament also specifically states that it is only the hand crack that is left of the prow itself, and that only slightly.

Maybe we were off-route? I'm not sure where else it could go. It would make little sense to suddenly traverse ten feet left. Jul 12, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
 
Crusher,

I toproped the upper part of Threshold; see Threshold Variation. The line I climbed on that route is left of My Way. See .

In Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guidebook, the description for Threshold says "jam discontinuous handcracks just left of the arete." My Way climbs cracks on the right side of the arete, and makes a move or two on the arete itself.

It may be possible to clip the second bolt of My Way from Threshold, but the climbing lines are distinct. I can relocate the second bolt on My Way farther to the right so it would not be possible to clip from Threshold, if that would make you happy. Jul 12, 2007
Ron, it's nice to have the rap anchor at the top, but the upper three protection bolts are a blatant retrobolting of the upper section of the excellent route Threshold. Jul 12, 2007
Rich Kelly
Boulder
 
Rich Kelly   Boulder
 
Good climb. I needed to do a blind placement (0.5 cam) in a crack to the left (10-12' above the pedestal above the slot) before stepping left into the crack. BTW, this climb looks like it covers similar terrain as "The Threshold". From the topo in Rossiter, it starts down and left of your route but then seems to be pretty much the same. I can only assume it must climb left of My Way since it is rated 11b (although only a section of 10 is shown on the topo). Oct 13, 2006
The original route, led by both Ron and me, had two bolt placements. Ron later added two more bolts and chose the name of the route.

Bruce Oct 10, 2006