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Routes in Boulder Slips

Boulder Slips T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Brand New Bosch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Colorado Senior Open T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edges and Ledges S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Family Guy T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Giggity-Giggity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Haiku S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
La Lune S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Minutia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Minutia Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
My Way T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Party Time! T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pumpkin Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ride, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Same As It Ever Was T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunlight Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Threshold Variation T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Threshold, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Throttle, The T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Useless One T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where's Bob? T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Dan Hare, Kurt Gray, Charly Oliver, 1980
Page Views: 2,972 total · 21/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Oct 5, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details
Access Issue: Poison Ivy Alert Details

Description

This is one of the best moderate crack climbs I've done in Boulder Canyon: steep, sustained, and elegant. The broken rock at the start, and the vibrating flake near the top keep it from 4-star status, but it is still a very good climb.

Walk west on the gravel pullout to the left side of the Boulder Slips formation. Hike up a path to the base of a broken slab. The striking hand crack of Minutia can be seen about 40' above.

Climb up easy broken rock to the base of the crack. The fun starts here and doesn't end until you're at the belay. Jam and stem up the beautiful, steep hand crack to a ledge. Step right, and climb a short dihedral. Watch out for a vibrating flake near the top of the route; best to avoid using the tempting jug at its top.

Clip the lowering hooks and lower 100' from a 2-bolt anchor at the top of the dihedral. It's also possible to belay from the top if you wish.

Location

On the left side of the Boulder Slips crag, about 100' above the road.

Protection

Hand-sized cams. I sewed it up with a yellow Alien, 2 #0.75 Camalots, 2 #1 Camalots, 2 #2 Camalots, and 2 #3 Camalots; bolder leaders can get by with less. 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks at the top. Lower 100' from here.
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
4 star handcrack in BC gets one's attention...okay climb, best bit is about 20' in the middle (a bit funky to get into this bit). From a clucker: a set of cams to #3.5 Camalot (or #4 Friend), #9 hex, & wires worked. Funky block(s) just below the anchor makes you think 'ard about pullin' on it. Not quite as good as North Face Center, Cob Rock. Oct 30, 2006
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
 
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
 
A very nice climb, takes great gear and great practice for leading cracks. A bit sustained in places, it is no gimme. A climb well worth doing. You may wish to consider doubling up on #1 and #2 Camalots to really feel good. Nov 13, 2006
Brenda Leach
Sandy, UT
Brenda Leach   Sandy, UT
Watch out for the loose block, about 2'H x 1'W, that's a few feet below the anchor. If you pull on it, it moves. Fun climb in the middle section. Nov 25, 2006
Nick Wilder
Boulder, CO
 
Nick Wilder   Boulder, CO  
 
Awesome climbing that would be solid 4 stars if it was longer and didn't have the chossy start to get to the crack. The loose rock others mentioned is either gone or trivial to avoid. Easy pro and really fun moves the whole way up. May 6, 2007
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
I found that for a crack climb in this grade, it is a classic.
The block mentioned by Brenda has been taken down late October 2006, early November 2006.
Be aware that this line is at a junction between two rock walls.
It is no surprise that there is some freeze/thaw stuff on this route. May 6, 2007
Rich Kelly
Boulder
 
Rich Kelly   Boulder
 
I really enjoyed the jamming on this climb but felt very uncomfortable pulling on the block just below the chains. It sounds like there was an even looser one here. Anyway, if you use less optimum holds/jams around it you can minimize the pull force on the block. May 16, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
 
I climbed the route again on 3/1/08. I found some small loose rocks near the start of the crack, which I plan to trundle when the crag is less crowded.

There is a big flake near the top of the route that vibrates when you tap on it, but it appears to be firmly anchored in the surrounding rock. You can get a good #1 Camalot in an overlap to the right, and avoid using the top of the flake as a handhold, without increasing the difficulty of the climb. Mar 2, 2008
Rebecca
Broomfield, CO
  5.8
Rebecca   Broomfield, CO
  5.8
A nice climb, I very much enjoyed it, and I am still a beginner trad leader. Gear places well, and the route takes nuts nicely in addition to all the cams mentioned before. Be careful if you use the gully up to the left for the approach as the rock is pretty loose in there. Apr 29, 2009
jcntrl
Smoulder, CO
  5.8
jcntrl   Smoulder, CO
  5.8
3-star handcrack on a 1-star crag. Worth doing if you're there anyway, but don't go to the 'Slips just for this climb. Oct 19, 2009
Bad beta on the number one in that crack as I saw one welded there a few months ago. If only I had more time, it would have been mine, but I had to meet a dudette in Eldo, so I had to stop fiddling. Jan 21, 2011
Tombo
Boulder
 
Tombo   Boulder
 
If you want to learn to climb hand crack at a moderate level, climb this route. You can lace it up and make harder if you want by avoiding any holds outside the crack. Wish it was longer. Nov 30, 2013
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8
This is a great climb! Too bad the crack is so short. Feb 12, 2014
jamandbees
Boulder, Colorado
  5.8 PG13
jamandbees   Boulder, Colorado
  5.8 PG13
This is a wonderful climb that's worth your time. A few of the early placements required some thought to get right, but there are some beautiful placements further up. I think this crack and the sport/mixed near it make this cliff a worthy day destination. Truly some surprisingly good climbs for such a small area. Jan 25, 2015
Dirk Diggler
Boulder, Colorado
  5.8
Dirk Diggler   Boulder, Colorado
  5.8
Awesome route. Doubles in BD #1, 2, and 3 were nice. Apr 5, 2016
Daniel Joder
Barcelona, Spain
Daniel Joder   Barcelona, Spain
Take a double-length runner, and clip the bolt to the left of the start of the crack--nice first anti-zipper piece. I used a #4 BD near the top of the hand crack but probably not necessary. May 2, 2017

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